Thursday, November 7, 2024

It's Cold! Let's Get Hiking! - Part 2

Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest (WI)
In Part 1, I explored gear and clothing, two of the components that add up to successful cold weather outdoor fun. 

Today we are going to look at how to plan hikes strategically in the colder weather and suggestions for hiking destinations in the Driftless.

While flora, fauna and fungi are tucked away during the cold and snowy weather, the bare trees allow even more expansive views of vistas and geological features so often hidden during the warmer, leaf-filled months. Brush also dies back freeing you to bushwhack and explore a bit more off-trail or hike more easily on lesser-used trails that are overgrown in the summer.

Reno's "spinal column" rocks

One strategy in planning your hikes is to think about some of the more dramatic vistas you enjoy or rock formations that you have glimpsed from trails but have never really seen as a whole. Also in the Driftless, the Mississippi River is a major migration flyway so there are exciting sights during late fall.

Another strategy is noting how cold or windy it is going to be. If you have a windy day, take note of wind direction and try bluffside hikes that take you below the rims where you will gain protection from bitter winds. Deciduous and coniferous forests can also be good choices in the wind. If you have a sunny but cold day with little wind, choose a sunnier spot for your hikes and start later in the day.

Is it time for the gun deer season? If you are in the Driftless area, the gun seasons for deer are often on different weeks from state to state. Pick hikes in a nearby state that isn't in gun hunting season (MN: Nov 9-17 and Nov 23-Dec 1. WI: Nov 23-Dec 1 and Dec 12-15.  IA: Dec 7-11; Dec 14-22).

If you think about your hiking destinations in some of these terms and you'll find an endless array of possible hikes. Here's a few suggestions to help you get started! Click on the hike title to find directions and descriptions of trails.

Migration Hotspots
November hiking affords dramatic migration action from many waterfowl including trumpeter and tundra swans. Hikes where you can look at these waterfowl or stop at an overlook on the way to see them are especially fun. So try:

Enjoying the views and spotting migrating swans
at Reno Quarry

  • Reno Quarry (MN) - Stop at Brownsville Overlook to see thousands of swans, geese and ducks as they rest and eat along their migration route. The overlook is staffed the first 3 weekends of November. Then hike the quarry for the Mississippi River views and marvel at the rocks on the trail spur north of the quarry.
  • Reno Spillway (MN) - If the spillway is open, take a walk right along the Mississippi River and see the thousands of ducks between the MN and WI bluffs. This hike is a gentle, flat one.
  • Sugar Creek Bluff SNA (WI) - Heading south from La Crosse, stop at the Shady Maple Overlook just south of Goose Island to see swans and other migrating waterfowl. Then continue on to this Mississippi Valley property south of Ferryville and enjoy a gentle hike out to outstanding views of the river and woods.


Look Out for Those Rocks
There are so many geological formations that are hidden by trees on trails. Fall and winter are ideal times to hike trails that reveal these massive cliffs and rocks. A few trails to try:
  • Yellow River Forest - Luster Heights Unit (IA) This area is relatively flat with some rolling hills and magnificent views of the Mississippi River. The rocks are pretty spectacular too! This is also a great snowshoe area.
  • Lost Creek Trail (MN) -  This is a fun late fall hike with great stream crossings and lovely views, not least of which is a series of towering limestone cliffs that are hidden during the growing season. The cliffs are about 2.25 miles in and make a great place to turn-around at this out-and-back hike that starts at the Ninebark trailhead.
  • Greens Coulee/Savannah Oaks (WI) - This Mississippi Valley Conservancy boasts some impressive ups and downs, a view or two and a great mushroom rock formation. Invasive buckthorn makes the trail to this rock tough in the growing season but with no leaves, the rock is easily visible. It's worth the hike!
  • Whitewater State Park (MN) - The Dakota trails are great for the dry part of late fall and early winter (I don't think I'd have the guts to snowshoe some parts of the narrow, sometimes eroded steep trails). The rock formations on these rim trails are amazing and a great way to enjoy the views.

Views to Die for
Ok, not really, but there are some spectacular views to be had when the leaves are off. They show a different face of familiar places and vistas that go on forever.
Paint Rock Unit of 
Yellow River State Forest
  • Yellow River Forest - Paint Rock Unit (IA) - With it's high bluffs and climbing trails to get to the fabulous rim trails, cool weather is a perfect time to tackle these bluffs. The views that greet you of the Mississippi are worth the price of admission.
  • Great River Bluffs State Park (MN) - Many iconic overlooks await you on these forest trails. The south trails have some steep and rolling spots so cool weather is your friend. It is another off-trail gem of a park for snowshoeing.
  • Levis-Trow Mounds Recreation Area (WI) - Great shared trails that climb up and down towards the rim. Amazing vistas on these high mounds offer views of the flatter glaciated land with the Driftless area's bluffs rising in the distance. Also had amazing rock formations!

Winter Wonderland
Snowshoeing is so much fun in the Driftless. And half the fun of being on 'shoes is that you can literally go wherever you want. You can stay on trails or explore off-trail to your hearts content. I'm an inveterate off-trailer, seeking deer trails and drifts to follow.  A winter day on snowshoes is a day worth living! Try some of these:

  • Apple Blossom Overlook Park     (MN) - A wonder of prairie flowers in the summer and a fun challenging snowshoe in winter. The off-trailing here is great fun . I only attempt the steep Dakota Overlook trail in winter to the little quarry and often follow the old road down to the highway. Owls await the silent.
  • Mathy Quarry Snakeroot Trail (WI) - a beautiful hiking trail that winds through prairie, pines, birches and woods. A winter wonderland in the snow indeed
  • Root River WMA (MN) - Lightly used, this is an off-trailing snowshoers dream. There are plenty of open areas to explore and enjoy majestic views of the surrounding bluffs. Keep an eye on watery spots.
  • Halfway Creek (WI) - This wide trail is great in summer but in winter it is a snowshoeing off-trail dream. You can follow along the creek, cross the bridges and explore the other side of the winding water. Though some snowshoe on the trail, I say why bother. Let hikers have it while you live the snowshoeing dream.

Bluffside Trails Protection 
Trails along bluffsides can be great in the winter. They offer protection from sharp winds. Often these can be bike trails which are far quieter in the winter. And bikers appreciate snowshoers coming in after snowfalls tramping down trails for bikes. Try these:
On Hixon's Chicanery bike trail
Image  - Kris Lawson

  • Hixon Forest Bike Trails (WI) - These trails are really delightful in winter when the snow is on the ground. You can use spikes on tamped down trails or snowshoes in fresh snow. Break it up a bit. Stinky/Chicanary. Another day do Twister/SpillHill/boB. Then try Prairie/Twister/Mr. Hyde. All of these trails are bluffside trails and offering wind protection depending on the direction of the wind.
  • Hixon Oak Trail (WI) - A hike-only trail that offers alot of rolling hills. I do this one with spikes since it is well tramped down and this gives me needed traction. 



Sunshine in the Open Air
Sometimes on a mild winter day, it's nice to have some sunshine even if it is a bit weak.   Try these to catch some Ds.:
Mertes Slough snowshoe

  • Wildwood Loop (MN) - High atop the Holzinger Trail system are these loop trails. On a sunny winter day, you get views of Winona and surrounding bluffs.
  •  Aghaming Park Trail (MN) - This trail down by the Mississippi River and its sloughs is a great snowshoe. Many off-trailing opportunities exist.
  • Mertes Slough (MN) -  An excellent snowshoe exploration. Make sure the ice is thick for this one. Your reward? Eagles nest, grand views and a labyrinth of possible trails.

Hope you challenge yourself to some year-round, cold-weather hiking adventures. I think you'll be glad you did!

Late fall chillaxing on a "sofa"
(fallen logs across the trail) on a MN bluff
Image - Diane Palm

All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters
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Monday, November 4, 2024

It's Cold! Let's Get Hiking! - Part 1

As temperatures start their drop this month, many people head to indoor fitness centers, gyms and activity centers to get their aerobic exercise done. I do some of that too.

But, as a year-round hiker, I continue to hike/snowshoe in the cold months of November through March. I find the scenery interesting, the trails less crowded and the weather not as bad as one might expect. 

The snowshoe view from the bluffs

There are three key components to late fall/winter outdoor fun:
  • the right gear
  • the right layers
  • strategic choices on hiking destinations
I'll look at gear and layers in this post. In part 2, we'll look at strategically choosing hiking and snowshoeing destinations as the weather turns cold, icy and snowy.

THE RIGHT GEAR
Microspikes
Bushwhacking with microspikes
Image -Lavon Court
Without a doubt, this has been the gear choice that exploded my world and really got me out year-round. Being able to get firm footing on icy trails with constant elevation changes is perfect for the Driftless area. Using spikes means I can be on trails throughout the winter even if there is no snow for my snowshoeing. I have Kahtoola brand and they wear like iron; I'm starting my 4th winter with them. They are worth every penny of their price and will keep you hiking during icy/snowy tramps. Hint: buy a size up from their recommendation - they fit tightly and it can be a struggle getting that strong rubber up and around your insulated boots.

Boots
You know when you are in inadequate cold weather boots - your feet are freezing! Keeping tootsies warm is easy when you have waterproof, insulated boots. I found a pair of Merrill hiking boots that are less bulky than my old Sorrels and are mid height. It gives my foot lots more flexibility while winter hiking, provides ankle support and keeps my feet toasty warm in even below zero temps. Best of all they work great for both hiking and snowshoeing!

Safety colors

Blaze Orange
While technically not gear, wearing blaze orange (hat, vest, overshirt, jacket) or blaze yellow during late fall/early winter hiking is a must. Many hunting seasons are occurring, especially gun seasons for deer. While you may be on private property or at a state park, those lands abut private lands and hunters often carry high-powered weapons. Being visible on the trail makes a real difference.



Leg Gaiters
Nothing is worse than getting snow in your boots especially when snowshoeing.  A pair of leg gaiters can be helpful in keeping your ankles and shins dry.  I also like the extra bit of insulation it provides my shins. My  40 year old pair of Outdoor Research gaiters is still going strong.

Snowshoes
Ever since I let go of my classic wood and rawhide-laced Iverson's and joined the modern world, I have snowshoed even more! The smaller, lighter aluminum models featuring heel lifts, crampons and insanely easy bindings really upped my snowshoeing game, especially in bluff country. My advice here: really look at the bindings and make sure they are quick enough to get into, tighten and release - it will save you seriously frozen fingers. If you are hiking up any bluffs or climbing while you snowshoe, I highly recommend making sure your snowshoes have heel lifts that can be popped up to support your heel and keep your foot flatter when climbing. Your Achilles tendons and calves will thank you!


THE RIGHT LAYERS


Pants Layers
Windproof and water-resistant are the way to go in winter. While I used to rely on thicker ski leggings, they lacked water resistance and I missed having pockets. Thanks to a thread on the Women Who Hike Minnesota Facebook page, I opted for for lightweight water and wind resistant Duluth Trading's Flexpedition pants instead. They keep me nimble and not feeling like I'm wrapped in swaths of cotton.  With a pair of long undies, I am set for just about any winter weather (true confession - I seldom venture out when the windchill is below -20F). My go-to base layers in order of warmth (light to heavy) are silk, polypro and merino wool long underwear depending on the temps. If it is wicked windy, I may combine two of these. My Smartwool Intraknit merino wool pair are super light, super warm and breathable. They keep me warm in the worst cold. Fleece or flannel-lined pants also cut the cold.

Late fall birches at Hixon

Top Layer Clothes
I am a huge merino wool fan. I use a light wool shirt as my base layer (or two if it's below zero). Then a turtle neck with a regular wool pullover sweater. The final wool sweater's weave and thickness depends on the weather and wind. That gives me plenty of warmth and options to de-layer as needed on the trail. Whether you use polypro or merino wool, that first base layer makes all the difference.

Typical gear for most winter fun
Image - Lloyd Lorenz


Jackets
Flexibility here is key depending on what weather you are going out into and if you want to be warm but not sweaty. Down vests are my go-to for most non-windy but cold days. Because I love to bushwhack when I snowshoe/hike in the cold months, I often get tears in my vests from prickly brush as I tramp. So I am a thrift store shopper for down vests which are my jacket of choice during the above-zero hikes and snowshoes. I also have a light down jacket with hood (pictured to the right) as the weather gets colder and an old but reliable Marmot hooded jacket with canvas outer shell and synthetic lining (similar to Carhart). It is monster wind-resistant and my below-zero go-to layer. 

Neck Gaiter
Rather than a scarf, I use a pull-over-my-head merino wool neck gaiter. It not only provides warmth for my neck but I can pull it up over my nose and head in a pinch. It is compact and can be stowed away in my pack so it is easily at hand.


At MacGilvray 7 Bridges
Image - Kris Lawson

I also recommend this post from This Big Wild World blog by MN's Susan Gleissner. She delves even further into recommendations on hats, gaiters, jackets and more and has some great tips and recommendations!
Late fall hiking at
Luster Heights Unit -
Yellow River State Forest


Click here to check out Part 2 of this series where we look at how to plan hikes strategically in the colder weather and suggestions for hiking destinations in the Driftless.


All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

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Friday, November 1, 2024

I Spy on the Trails - October 2024

One small area of the Big Kachina petroglyph panel 
in Bears Ear National Monument

October has been full of travel hikes. So I have been watching the trail sides in Colorado, Utah, Madison, WI and along the North Shore of Lake Superior with only a few brief hikes in the Driftless.

I’ll share a few observations and thoughts in each travel region. 

House on Fire Puebloan granaries
Bears Ears National Monument
The name comes from the unique way the sun
reflects off the overhanging rock.
Image - Linda Pole
In UT, CO and NM, we arrived at the peak of the aspen color season as well as before the cold hit other trees and plants. Our hikes were centered primarily on Ancestral Puebloan and Chacoan cultural sites and geographical features of the Southwest. We took advantage of opportunities to go on interpretative hikes that expanded our knowledge of the culture and peoples who inhabited and thrived on the land long before the appearance of Europeans. While our eyes were dazzled by the incredible geology, our minds were swept away by the petroglyphs, buildings and exploration of the ancestral and modern cultures of the Indigenous people of the region.

To my delight, in Bluff, a small community in southwest UT, the highway welcome sign says “Bluff Utah, Founded 650 AD". We seldom see communities acknowledge the precedence of indigenous ancestral people. I found great meaning in that simple statement of fact.


Image- Nola Larson
Back home in the Driftless, I took advantage of the high fall leaf color time and slightly cooler temps to hike up bluffs and mounds for great views with no sweating! My biggest surprise, during these climate-change-fueled, lingering above-normal temp days, was a friend's discovery of a blooming Jack-in-the-Pulpit on a trail in Hixon Forest (WI).  It was a sobering testament, along with unseasonably warm temps so far into Oct (70F on 10/28/24 and 82F on 10/29/24) to how our climate is warming


Just-past-dawn hike at Pincushion Mtn
to a gorgeous outlook - Grand Marais
Along the North Shore, there were still some patches of beautiful colors despite the forests being past peak. My hiking partner had badly sprained his ankle so we alternated driving adventures together with my solo hikes. 

I did all my hikes at the crack of dawn to leave time for afternoon adventures. I was alone on all the trails, and at outlooks and viewsheds. It was wonderful to find that level of solitude in parks and trails that are busy even in the off-season. I treasured that experience. 

With Lake Superior and the amazing geological formations everywhere, I didn’t need flora or colorful leaves to dazzle my eyes. I was a truly happy hiker.


What are YOU noticing on your hikes?



A month of hikes:
Hikes below in bold color or underlined have links to previous posts OR descriptions/location of the trails found online

Walking through a series
of underground storage areas
Aztec Ruins Nat'l Monument

Bluff, UT & Bears Ears National Monument

Aztec NM



Chalk Mountains and aspens
San Juan National Forest



Pagosa Springs, CO
San Juan Mountains National Forest






Madison WI 



A "keyhole" peep at leaves and sun through
massive rocks in Levis Trow Mounds
Image - Lavon Court



Driftless Area
Upper Hixon Park, La Crosse WI 
Levis Trow Mounds, Black River Falls WI 














Dawn at Temperance River-Carleton Peak SHT trail

North Shore of Lake Superior
Pincushion Mountain, Grand Marais, MN






Rock scrambling to Wolfman's petroglyph panel
in Bear's Ears National Monument UT
All my Driftless bluff hiking paid off!
Image  - Lee Coveney

Images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

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