I Spy on the Trails - November 2024

Hoar frost
on the forest floor

It felt like a tropical heat wave during the first half of this month with decidedly un-November-like weather. My coldest morning hikes started in the high 30s and most days I hiked in warmish 40s and 50s temps. We had some fog, some sun, some rain and an actual snowfall on November 20 (lots, lots earlier than in recent years!). We ended in the 30s (with a nip of 20s at the last) this past week, a much more seasonal temp.

As I hoped, the temps were still cool enough and the leafless trees bare enough to make for some of my favorite fall hiking. Clear views, no sweat and no bugs! Well, low bugs. Like last year, the unseasonably warm temps at month’s beginning kept ticks active. With my Premethrin-sprayed clothes, Rynoskin and 10-minutes-in-the-dryer routine, I was comfortable and tick-free. But really?!?!  

A view of the Mississippi in Iowa
Image -Kris Lawson

The hunting seasons in MN and WI kept me hopping in the tri-state area and revisiting favorite trails and parks from state-to-state. A lot of these trails, with their stunning geology and expansive river views, I save especially for the snowless late fall/early winter hikes.

I find November hiking beautiful, full of surprises and prime hiking time. Last year I made some observations and they remain just as true. This year, my eyes were again dazzled by flashes of green, incredible rock formations, migratory birds and vistas that went on forever.

Here are a few of my favorite sights over the November weeks. 

Tundra swans and ducks finally arrived
in great numbers in November's last week

Great rocks in fog and, on another day, in sun
at Levis Trow Mounds 

Post-warm rain forest floor

A lovely log full of turkey-tail fungi

Now let's start thinking and wishing hard for some crispy cold and luscious snow to play in!

What are YOU noticing on your hikes?

A month of hikes:

Hikes below in bold color or underlined have links to previous posts OR descriptions/location of the trails found online

Levis Trow Mounds, Black River Falls WI (2); Iowisota Retreat Center bluff trails, Lansing IA; Lytle’s Landing, Brice Prairie WI; Camel Hump trails, Onalaska WI; Goose Island County Park, La Crosse WI; Reno Quarry, Brownsville MN; Fish Farm Mounds, Lansing IA (2);  Red Oak Road Dike and Lookout, Harper's Ferry IA; Yellow River Forest, Luster Heights Unit, Harper's Ferry IA

At Yellow River Forest Luster Heights
North Overlook
Image -Kris Lawson

All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

Levis Trow Mounds (WI) - Levis Rim Trails

The last time I posted about Levis Mounds, we were on a short out-and back-hike of 2.5 miles with a friend who was testing a rehabbed knee on the elevation and rolling terrain. There was more to explore so I headed back to check out a few more of the amazing rim and upper bluffside trails and a different trailhead during a few 4-mile hikes up and around some of the rim's features.

There are two trailheads on this part of the recreation area to access the Levis Mound rim trails: 

The trailhead sign by the main parking lot
Image - Steve Dawson

The first is the main trailhead that has a number of amenities and a sign marking the hiking trail's start. 

This is my favorite way up by far. From this trailhead, it's a quick 20 minute or so hike up Dump and Bear Den trails. These narrow trails run through lovely forests and beside rock faces and take you quickly up to Northface trail. From Northface you can begin to explore the multiple routes.

There are also other routes from this trailhead to get up to the rim that you can can explore, especially if you want to add additional miles to your hike. Many  feature wide, grassy old logging roads. The trails are shared biking and hiking trails but on weekdays the bike traffic is light and bikers and hikers accommodating for each other.

The second trailhead is just south and around the corner on WI Hwy 95. For me, this is a slightly less interesting trailhead. The first half mile of so is through a low logged out area (with newer tree growth) quite near the highway that looks pretty rough before you finally start climbing towards the wooded hillsides of the Levis Mound.

The rock that beckoned us!

Our hike from this second trailhead took us along Warmup trail to a left on Switchback. After we wound through the first scrubbier area, we finally starting to ascend the mound with its huge hardwood forested slopes. Aaaaah. One of the first rock formations we came to begged us to scramble around on it. We spotted a small trail upwards from the rock top and, after a steep quick climb, emerged at the Troll rock at the rim. Keeping on the other trail would have made for a longer hike so we were glad we explored! 

The rim trails can be narrow and rocky but changes in elevation are fairly slight or rolling at most. Up here, there are plenty  of incredible overlooks and amazing rock formations to explore. The views at the top overlook vast forests below, as well as the slopes of Levis Mound. You can glimpse Black River Falls in the near distance and other mounds and small bluffs, part of the ancient ocean floor farther away.

Some of my favorite features besides the Troll Rock include:

South Point Overlook - South Point trail heads off Clarence to the right and leads to a huge area of rocks and stellar views.

High Rock Overlook - From Northface, take Clarence Trail to access High Rock overlook as well as a couple other unnamed overlooks along the trail.  

Plummer's Crack - From Northface trail, take Corkscrew for a hot minute to Toad Road trail and you are treated to a boardwalk between two huge rock formations. It's great fun!

Toad Road's Rock Faces - Continue along this trail and soon you will be treated to a huge stretch of towering sandstone features along the left-hand side of this upper bluffside trail. For me, this is one of the more breathtaking features of the Levis Mound hikes I did. You will once again run into Northface if you want to return to the main trailhead or for the Hwy 95 trailhead, follow Switchback to West Levis (logging road) or Select Cut (narrow woods trail) back to your start.

THE HIKE
Hardwood forests, multiple trails (that can be confusing - an app like AllTrails can be very helpful), gorgeous rock formations and overlooks that show endless forest lands are all in store on this 41 mile hiking/biking/skiing trail system. You can tailor your hiking explorations to do the mileage you prefer. Your elevation gain will be in the 380-400 foot range (the mounds are shorter than the Mississippi River bluffs). This is a great area to visit multiple times. Once up on the rim, there are multiple trails and rock formations to explore in any season.

The Locations: 

The trailheads are located just about 17 miles out of Black River Falls. There are groomed ski trails in the winter. Bikers and skiers pay a small usage fee; hikers can use the trails for free.

• Main Trailhead: N1589 Fisher Ave, Neilsville WI   44.47676, -90.72377 (bathrooms/shower/campsites/covered picnic area)

• Hwy 95 trailhead: from Black River Falls, take a right on Hwy 95  44.46646N, 90.72404W.  (pit toilet) 

All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

Additional posts describing Levis Trow Mounds Recreation Area trails:

• Troll Rock Trail 
• Levis Trow Recreation area general trail description

 

Let's Get Hiking and Learning - December 2024

For more information on the trips, where available, please click on the brown event titles for a link to the program or hike.

I will be updating this post periodically during December as new events are announced, so feel free to stop back!. De

Late November Events

 Naturalist at the Brownsville Overlook

 - Saturday Nov 23.   10am-2pm

 - Brownsville (MN) Overlook

With such a gradual migration this fall, and Thanksgiving falling later this year, we're extending our naturalist season by one additional date, Saturday November 23! If you haven't been to the Brownsville Overlook yet, there's still time!  There are currently about 3,000 - 4,000 swans on Lower Pool 8, however, they've been more hit and miss at Brownsville this year. There were about 40 swans in front of the overlook this morning, with 150-200 north of the overlook and about 400-500 ducks. The Hwy 26 Overlook about two miles south of the Brownsville Overlook has been seeing higher numbers of swans, around 1500-2000. The Shady Maple Overlook about 1 mile south Goose Island County Park on Hwy 35 near Stoddard, WI has been a good spot too. BUT, we are hoping the colder weather will bring more swans in to Brownsville this weekend. Recent sightings and estimates of bird numbers are posted here : https://www.fws.gov/refuge/upper-mississippi-river

A Refuge naturalist will be stationed at the Brownsville Overlook on Saturday, November 23, 10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m., to help visitors identify birds and share information about the refuge and migration. Please note that naturalists’ shifts may be cancelled or end early without warning in inclement or extremely cold weather. This event is part of our 100th Anniversary Interpretive Series! The Brownsville Overlook is located about three miles south of Brownsville, Minnesota along Minnesota Highway 26. A portable restroom will be available on-site. We recommend wearing lots of warm layers! Though peak migration is difficult to predict, the best time to see the tundra swan migration is usually the second or third week in November. The swans will typically stay until the water freezes over – if temperatures stay below freezing at night, the peak of migration will be earlier in November. Warmer weather extends their stay. For more information, please call the La Crosse District Visitor Center at 608-779-2399. The Visitor Center will be open for winter hours Tuesday – Friday, 9am – 3pm starting in November. Sponsor: Upper Mississippi River National Fish & Wildlife Refuge

Hike Up to Eagle Point

 - Saturday, November 23   1-2:30 pm

 - Whitewater State Park

Are you looking to get out and stretch your legs without worrying about deer hunters? Then you should join us for a hike up to Eagle Point! During our hike we'll see great views and learn a lot about this amazing park. We'll investigate the parks origins, geology, and ecology during this fun 1 mile trip. Elevation Gain - 300ft. Meet at the Visitor's Center.  Contact Jeremy Darst at 507-312-2301 or by email at Jeremy.Darst@state.mn.us. Sponsor: Whitewater State Park

Free State Parks Day
- Friday Nov 29   

 - All MN State Parks

On four days each year, all Minnesota state parks and state recreation areas offer free admission to everyone - no vehicle permits needed! Minnesota state parks are open year-round, and there's a state park within 30 miles of most Minnesotans. With a free day in each season, it's a great opportunity to get out there and explore someplace new - or visit an old favorite at a new time of year! Whether you stay for the whole weekend or just spend a few hours outside, you'll make memories that will last a lifetime. The entrance fee waiver for fee-free days does not cover amenity or user fees for activities like camping, rentals, or special tours. The goal is to encourage families and friends to spend time together in nature. Research shows many health and wellness benefits to spending time in nature. According to ParkRx, contact with nature improves one’s physical, mental, and spiritual health. Getting outdoors makes exercise more fun and can boost mood and immunity. The American Psychological Association shares that exposure to nature is linked to benefits including improved attention, lower stress, reduced risk of psychiatric disorders and even increases in empathy and cooperation. Sponsor: MN DNR.

 

December Events

Advent Candlelight Walk
- Monday, December 2              6:30-8:00pm
- W2658 WI-33, La Crosse, WI 54601
All are invited to join us for a peaceful mile-long hike filled with Advent-themed prayers and candle luminaires. All ages are welcome and winter attire is encouraged. Snacks and refreshments will be provided! Those unable to hike are still welcome to join us for snacks and conversation around a fire. No pets, please. Sponsor: Franciscan Sisters of Perpetual Adoration

Adventures in Bird Banding

 - Wednesday December 11      10am - noon

 - Whitewater State Park

Join us a look behind the scenes at how birds are caught, who bands which birds, how, and why. Terry and Joyce Grier have almost 20 years? experience capturing and banding songbirds and saw-whet owls. They will share their adventures and maybe a few misadventures. This is a monthly H.O.P. into the Park program (Healthy Older People). Sponsor: Friends of Whitewater State Park!

Hike into the Whitewater Wilds
 - Saturday, December 14        Noon-2:30 pm

 - Whitewater State Park

Ever want to get out and explore? This hike will take us off the beaten path into a little used part of the park with some great views. Along the way we will search for clues to a hidden geocache somewhere along the route. So dress warm, grab your hiking boots, and let's go on an adventure! With adequate snow we will use snowshoes during this program. You can bring your own or borrow a pair of the parks. (Distance: 2 Miles, Elevation Gain: 300ft). To register call 507-312-2301 or email Jeremy.Darst@state.mn.us Sponsor: Whitewater State Park

Guided Hike to Hanging Rock

 - Saturday, December 14     12:30-4:30pm

 - Effigy Mounds National Monument

Join a ranger for a hike to the iconic Hanging Rock overlook and catch the full-moon rise over the river on the hike back!  This strenuous seven-mile round-trip hike starts from the visitor center and quickly climbs 350 feet to the top of the bluff. The walk passes a variety of mound groups and takes between three to four hours to complete. Please come dressed for the weather and bring extra water/snacks along for this adventure. Sponsor: Effigy Mounds National Monument

Owl Prowl
- Saturday, December 14      5:00 -7:30 pm

 - International Owl Center, Houston MN

We start with a 30-minute program indoors to teach you how to identify owls by sound and the ethics of calling owls. Then you hop in your vehicle and follow the Owlmobile to about three different locations in rural Houston where Jo, our resident expert owl caller, will imitate owl calls in hopes of getting some responses. The program is capped at 30 participants, and these always sell out in advance. Cost is $10 for members and $15 for non-members. Due to the need to stand perfectly still for 10 minutes or more at a time, these owl prowls are not recommended for children under age 12. No pets, smoking or vaping allowed either indoors or outdoors. Registration required. Registration opens November 17.  [Note: Registration for the January 11, 2025 Owl Prowl begins December 13]. Sponsor: International Owl Center 

Iowa (Allamakee and Winneshiek County residents) Neighbor Weekends

 - December 21-22

 - International Owl Center, Houston MN
Residents of local IA counties (Allamakee and Winneshiek counties), including college students, are specially invited to visit the International Owl Center for FREE on Neighbor Weekends. Come see live owls in person, check out our hands-on displays, and stay for our live programs at 11 and 2 each day. Please bring a driver license, student ID or other form of identification to verify your place of residence. Visitors from elsewhere are also welcome, but will be required to pay the regular admission fee of $9 for adults, $8 for seniors/veterans/military and $6 for children aged 4-17. Sponsor: International Owl Center

To find additional events, check often during the month with local hiking groups, universities, naturalist-interest groups, nature conservancies, nature centers and their Friends groups, state parks, US Fish and Wildlife centers and others in your area to see what's new to help you understand the natural world around you better. 

Naturalist's Corner - Where Are the Swans?

November along the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge which stretches through MN, WI, IA and IL is a hotbed of waterfowl migration. Puddle and diving ducks, pelicans, trumpeter and tundra swans, Canada geese, eagles and other water fowl spend time on the river and its backwater sloughs on their way to their wintering grounds.

The trumpeter and tundra swans that come in to rest and refuel on their way are always a big draw. There are a number of overlooks that stretch along the refuge that give a great birds-eye view of the action of the swans. 

Last year, the swan migration was well underway by November 6 when I wrote this post exploring swans' migration behavior.

But this year, not so much. The bulk of the migrating swans seem to be late. Warmer weather certainly seems to be playing a part. We have had unseasonably warm temperatures throughout late October and early November this year. 

To find out what's up, we checked this recent post from the experts at  Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge. On November 15, they posted the following on their Facebook page:

Photo: An adult tundra swan flies with two juvenile swans courtesy of Joni Welda.

"We are not sure when the peak of the tundra swan migration will be this year, the on-going warm weather has made predicting that more challenging. The eastern population of tundra swans stop first in the boreal forests of Canada, then in the Prairie Pothole Regions of the Dakotas, before arriving here on the River. The timing of their arrival depends on cold weather north of us causing bodies of water to freeze in their prior stopover sites, encouraging the birds to move on. If northern stopover sites don't have cold weather, length-of-day cues may encourage swans to move on, or they may move on when they've eaten most of their food source in these locations. We'll have to see what we see!

Recent bird sightings can be found on our website here: https://www.fws.gov/story/2022-10/recent-bird-sightings "

So be of good cheer, the larger numbers of migrating tundra and trumpeter swans are still coming. Be sure to stop at some of the listed overlooks and roadsides in the coming weeks and revel in the glory of the late fall swan migrations!

It's Cold! Let's Get Hiking! - Part 2

Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest (WI)

In Part 1, I explored gear and clothing, two components that add up to successful cold weather outdoor fun. 

Today we are going to look at how to plan hikes strategically in the colder weather and suggestions for hiking destinations in the Driftless.

While flora, fauna and fungi are tucked away during the cold and snowy weather, the bare trees allow even more expansive views of vistas and geological features so often hidden during the warmer, leaf-filled months. Brush also dies back freeing you to bushwhack and explore a bit more off-trail or hike more easily on lesser-used trails that are overgrown in the summer.

Reno's "spinal column" rocks

One strategy in planning your hikes is to think about some of the more dramatic vistas you enjoy or rock formations that you have glimpsed from trails but have never really seen as a whole. Also in the Driftless, the Mississippi River is a major migration flyway so there are exciting sights during late fall.

Another strategy is noting how cold or windy it is going to be. If you have a windy day, take note of wind direction and try bluffside hikes that take you below the rims where you will gain protection from bitter winds. Deciduous and coniferous forests can also be good choices in the wind. If you have a sunny but cold day with little wind, choose a sunnier spot for your hikes and start later in the day.

Is it time for the gun deer season? If you are in the Driftless area, the gun seasons for deer are often on different weeks from state to state. Pick hikes in a nearby state that isn't in gun hunting season (MN: Nov 9-17 and Nov 23-Dec 1. WI: Nov 23-Dec 1 and Dec 12-15.  IA: Dec 7-11; Dec 14-22).

If you think about your hiking destinations in some of these terms, you'll find an endless array of possible hikes. Here's a few suggestions to help you get started! Click on the hike title to find directions and descriptions of trails.

Migration Hotspots
November hiking affords dramatic migration action from many waterfowl including trumpeter and tundra swans. Hikes where you can look at these waterfowl or stop at an overlook on the way to see them are especially fun. So try:

Enjoying the views and spotting migrating swans
at Reno Quarry

• Reno Quarry (MN) - Stop at Brownsville Overlook to see thousands of swans, geese and ducks as they rest and eat along their migration route. The overlook is staffed the first 3 weekends of November. Then hike the quarry for the Mississippi River views and marvel at the rocks on the trail spur north of the quarry.

• Reno Spillway (MN) - If the spillway is open, take a walk right along the Mississippi River and see the thousands of ducks between the MN and WI bluffs. This hike is a gentle, flat one.

• Sugar Creek Bluff SNA (WI) - Heading south from La Crosse, stop at the Shady Maple Overlook just south of Goose Island to see swans and other migrating waterfowl. Then continue on to this Mississippi Valley property south of Ferryville and enjoy a gentle hike out to outstanding views of the river and woods.

Look Out for Those Rocks

There are so many geological formations that are hidden by trees on trails. Fall and winter are ideal times to hike trails that reveal these massive cliffs and rocks. A few trails to try:

• 

  Mushroom Rock revealed in winter!

  
  Beaver Valley State Park (MN) - The rim trails of the park are full of dramatic rocks; but so too is the trail that runs on either side of the trout stream. With leaves down, the rocks and narrow valley walls are breathtaking.

• Yellow River Forest - Luster Heights Unit (IA) This area is relatively flat with some rolling hills and magnificent views of the Mississippi River. The rocks are pretty spectacular too! This is also a great snowshoe area.

• Lost Creek Trail (MN) -  This is a fun late fall hike with great stream crossings and lovely views, not least of which is a series of towering limestone cliffs that are hidden during the growing season. The cliffs are about 2.25 miles in and make a great place to turn-around at this out-and-back hike that starts at the Ninebark trailhead.

• Greens Coulee/Savannah Oaks (WI) - This Mississippi Valley Conservancy boasts some impressive ups and downs, a view or two and a great mushroom rock formation. Invasive buckthorn makes the trail to this rock tough in the growing season but with no leaves, the rock is easily visible. It's worth the hike!

• Whitewater State Park (MN) - The Dakota trails are great for the dry part of late fall and early winter (I don't think I'd have the guts to snowshoe some parts of the narrow, sometimes eroded steep trails). The rock formations on these rim trails are amazing and a great way to enjoy the views.

Views to Die for

Ok, not really, but there are some spectacular views to be had when the leaves are off. They show a different face of familiar places and vistas that go on forever.

Paint Rock Unit of 
Yellow River State Forest

• Yellow River Forest - Paint Rock Unit (IA) - With it's high bluffs and climbing trails to get to the fabulous rim trails, cool weather is a perfect time to tackle these bluffs. The views that greet you of the Mississippi are worth the price of admission.

• Great River Bluffs State Park (MN) - Many iconic overlooks await you on these forest trails. The south trails have some steep and rolling spots so cool weather is your friend. It is another off-trail gem of a park for snowshoeing.

• Levis-Trow Mounds Recreation Area (WI) - Great shared trails that climb up and down towards the rim. Amazing vistas on these high mounds offer views of the flatter glaciated land with the Driftless area's bluffs rising in the distance. Also had amazing rock formations!

Winter Wonderland

Snowshoeing is so much fun in the Driftless. And half the fun of being on 'shoes is that you can literally go wherever you want. You can stay on trails or explore off-trail to your hearts content. I'm an inveterate off-trailer, seeking deer trails and drifts to follow.  A winter day on snowshoes is a day worth living! Try some of these:

• 
  
  Apple Blossom Overlook Park (MN) - A wonder of prairie flowers in the summer and a fun challenging snowshoe in winter. The off-trailing here is great fun . I only attempt the steep Dakota Overlook trail in winter to the little quarry and often follow the old road down to the highway. Owls await the silent.

• Mathy Quarry Snakeroot Trail (WI) - a beautiful hiking trail that winds through prairie, pines, birches and woods. A winter wonderland in the snow indeed

• Root River WMA (MN) - Lightly used, this is an off-trailing snowshoers dream. There are plenty of open areas to explore and enjoy majestic views of the surrounding bluffs. Keep an eye on watery spots.

• Halfway Creek (WI) - This wide trail is great in summer but in winter it is a snowshoeing off-trail dream. You can follow along the creek, cross the bridges and explore the other side of the winding water. Though some snowshoe on the trail, I say why bother. Let hikers have it while you live the snowshoeing dream.

Bluffside Trails Protection 

Trails along bluffsides can be great in the winter. They offer protection from sharp winds. Often these can be bike trails which are far quieter in the winter. And bikers appreciate snowshoers coming in after snowfalls tramping down trails for bikes. Try these:

On Hixon's Chicanery bike trail
Image  - Kris Lawson

• Hixon Forest Bike Trails (WI) - These trails are really delightful in winter when the snow is on the ground. You can use spikes on tamped down trails or snowshoes in fresh snow. Break it up a bit. Stinky/Chicanary. Another day do Twister/SpillHill/boB. Then try Prairie/Twister/Mr. Hyde. All of these trails are bluffside trails and offering wind protection depending on the direction of the wind.

• Hixon Oak Trail (WI) - A hike-only trail that offers alot of rolling hills. I do this one with spikes since it is well tramped down and this gives me needed traction. 

Sunshine in the Open Air

Sometimes on a mild winter day, it's nice to have some sunshine even if it is a bit weak.   Try these to catch some Ds.:

Mertes Slough snowshoe

• MacGilvray's Seven Bridges (WI)  - A lovely walk or snowshoe across six historic bridges through wetlands and woods.

• Wildwood Loop (MN) - High atop the Holzinger Trail system are these loop trails. On a sunny winter day, you get views of Winona and surrounding bluffs.

•  Aghaming Park Trail (MN) - This trail down by the Mississippi River and its sloughs is a great snowshoe. Many off-trailing opportunities exist.

• Mertes Slough (MN) -  An excellent snowshoe exploration. Make sure the ice is thick for this one. Your reward? Eagles nest, grand views and a labyrinth of possible trails.

Hope you challenge yourself to some year-round, cold-weather hiking adventures. I think you'll be glad you did!

Late fall chillaxing on a "sofa"
(fallen logs across the trail) on a MN bluff
Image - Diane Palm

All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

It's Cold! Let's Get Hiking! - Part 1

As temperatures start their drop this month, many people head to indoor fitness centers, gyms and activity centers to get their aerobic exercise done. I do some of that too.

But, as a year-round hiker, I continue to hike/snowshoe in the cold months of November through March. I find the scenery interesting, the trails less crowded and the weather not as bad as one might expect. 

The snowshoe view from the bluffs

There are three key components to late fall/winter outdoor fun:

• the right gear
• the right layers
• strategic choices on hiking destinations

I'll look at gear and layers in this post. In part 2, we'll look at strategically choosing hiking and snowshoeing destinations as the weather turns cold, icy and snowy.

THE RIGHT GEAR

Microspikes

Bushwhacking with microspikes
Image -Lavon Court

Without a doubt, this has been the gear choice that exploded my world and really got me out year-round. Being able to get firm footing on icy trails with constant elevation changes is perfect for the Driftless area. Using spikes means I can be on trails throughout the winter even if there is no snow for my snowshoeing. I have Kahtoola brand and they wear like iron; I'm starting my 4th winter with them. They are worth every penny of their price and will keep you hiking during icy/snowy tramps. Hint: buy a size up from their recommendation - they fit tightly and it can be a struggle getting that strong rubber up and around your insulated boots.

Boots

You know when you are in inadequate cold weather boots - your feet are freezing! Keeping tootsies warm is easy when you have waterproof, insulated boots. I found a pair of Merrill hiking boots that are less bulky than my old Sorrels and are mid height. It gives my foot lots more flexibility while winter hiking, provides ankle support and keeps my feet toasty warm in even below zero temps. Best of all they work great for both hiking and snowshoeing!

Safety colors

Blaze Orange

While technically not gear, wearing blaze orange (hat, vest, overshirt, jacket) or blaze yellow during late fall/early winter hiking is a must. Many hunting seasons are occurring, especially gun seasons for deer. While you may be on private property or at a state park, those lands abut private lands and hunters often carry high-powered weapons. Being visible on the trail makes a real difference.

Leg Gaiters

Nothing is worse than getting snow in your boots especially when snowshoeing.  A pair of leg gaiters can be helpful in keeping your ankles and shins dry.  I also like the extra bit of insulation it provides my shins. My  40 year old pair of Outdoor Research gaiters is still going strong.

Snowshoes

Ever since I let go of my classic wood and rawhide-laced Iverson's and joined the modern world, I have snowshoed even more! The smaller, lighter aluminum models featuring heel lifts, crampons and insanely easy bindings really upped my snowshoeing game, especially in bluff country. My advice here: really look at the bindings and make sure they are quick enough to get into, tighten and release - it will save you seriously frozen fingers. If you are hiking up any bluffs or climbing while you snowshoe, I highly recommend making sure your snowshoes have heel lifts that can be popped up to support your heel and keep your foot flatter when climbing. Your Achilles tendons and calves will thank you!

THE RIGHT LAYERS

Pants Layers

Windproof and water-resistant are the way to go in winter. While I used to rely on thicker ski leggings, they lacked water resistance and I missed having pockets. Thanks to a thread on the Women Who Hike Minnesota Facebook page, I opted for for lightweight water and wind resistant Duluth Trading's Flexpedition pants instead. They keep me nimble and not feeling like I'm wrapped in swaths of cotton.  With a pair of long undies, I am set for just about any winter weather (true confession - I seldom venture out when the windchill is below -20F). My go-to base layers in order of warmth (light to heavy) are silk, polypro and merino wool long underwear depending on the temps. If it is wicked windy, I may combine two of these. My Smartwool Intraknit merino wool pair are super light, super warm and breathable. They keep me warm in the worst cold. Fleece or flannel-lined pants also cut the cold.

Late fall birches at Hixon

Top Layer Clothes

I am a huge merino wool fan. I use a light wool shirt as my base layer (or two if it's below zero). Then a turtle neck with a regular wool pullover sweater. The final wool sweater's weave and thickness depends on the weather and wind. That gives me plenty of warmth and options to de-layer as needed on the trail. Whether you use polypro or merino wool, that first base layer makes all the difference.

Typical gear for most winter fun
Image - Lloyd Lorenz

Jackets

Flexibility here is key depending on what weather you are going out into and if you want to be warm but not sweaty. Down vests are my go-to for most non-windy but cold days. Because I love to bushwhack when I snowshoe/hike in the cold months, I often get tears in my vests from prickly brush as I tramp. So I am a thrift store shopper for down vests which are my jacket of choice during the above-zero hikes and snowshoes. I also have a light down jacket with hood (pictured to the right) as the weather gets colder and an old but reliable Marmot hooded jacket with canvas outer shell and synthetic lining (similar to Carhart). It is monster wind-resistant and my below-zero go-to layer. 

Neck Gaiter

Rather than a scarf, I use a pull-over-my-head merino wool neck gaiter. It not only provides warmth for my neck but I can pull it up over my nose and head in a pinch. It is compact and can be stowed away in my pack so it is easily at hand.

At MacGilvray 7 Bridges
Image - Kris Lawson

I also recommend this post from This Big Wild World blog by MN's Susan Gleissner. She delves even further into recommendations on hats, gaiters, jackets and more and has some great tips and recommendations!

Late fall hiking at
Luster Heights Unit -
Yellow River State Forest

Click here to check out Part 2 of this series where we look at how to plan hikes strategically in the colder weather and suggestions for hiking destinations in the Driftless.

All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

I Spy on the Trails - October 2024

One small area of the Big Kachina petroglyph panel 
in Bears Ear National Monument

October has been full of travel hikes. So I have been watching the trail sides in Colorado, Utah, Madison, WI and along the North Shore of Lake Superior with only a few brief hikes in the Driftless.

I’ll share a few observations and thoughts in each travel region. 

House on Fire Puebloan granaries
Bears Ears National Monument
The name comes from the unique way the sun
reflects off the overhanging rock.
Image - Linda Pole

In UT, CO and NM, we arrived at the peak of the aspen color season as well as before the cold hit other trees and plants. Our hikes were centered primarily on Ancestral Puebloan and Chacoan cultural sites and geographical features of the Southwest. We took advantage of opportunities to go on interpretative hikes that expanded our knowledge of the culture and peoples who inhabited and thrived on the land long before the appearance of Europeans. While our eyes were dazzled by the incredible geology, our minds were swept away by the petroglyphs, buildings and exploration of the ancestral and modern cultures of the Indigenous people of the region.

To my delight, in Bluff, a small community in southwest UT, the highway welcome sign says “Bluff Utah, Founded 650 AD". We seldom see communities acknowledge the precedence of indigenous ancestral people. I found great meaning in that simple statement of fact.

Image- Nola Larson

Back home in the Driftless, I took advantage of the high fall leaf color time and slightly cooler temps to hike up bluffs and mounds for great views with no sweating! My biggest surprise, during these climate-change-fueled, lingering above-normal temp days, was a friend's discovery of a blooming Jack-in-the-Pulpit on a trail in Hixon Forest (WI).  It was a sobering testament, along with unseasonably warm temps so far into Oct (70F on 10/28/24 and 82F on 10/29/24) to how our climate is warming

Just-past-dawn hike at Pincushion Mtn
to a gorgeous outlook - Grand Marais

Along the North Shore, there were still some patches of beautiful colors despite the forests being past peak. My hiking partner had badly sprained his ankle so we alternated driving adventures together with my solo hikes. 

I did all my hikes at the crack of dawn to leave time for afternoon adventures. I was alone on all the trails, and at outlooks and viewsheds. It was wonderful to find that level of solitude in parks and trails that are busy even in the off-season. I treasured that experience. 

With Lake Superior and the amazing geological formations everywhere, I didn’t need flora or colorful leaves to dazzle my eyes. I was a truly happy hiker.

What are YOU noticing on your hikes?

A month of hikes:

Hikes below in bold color or underlined have links to previous posts OR descriptions/location of the trails found online

Walking through a series
of underground storage areas
Aztec Ruins Nat'l Monument

Bluff, UT & Bears Ears National Monument

Butler Wash - Big Kachina Panel and River House

Butler Wash -Wolfman Panel 

Mule Canyon -House on Fire

Aztec NM

Aztec Ruins National Monument 

Chalk Mountains and aspens
San Juan National Forest

Pagosa Springs, CO

San Juan Mountains National Forest

Piedra River Trail

Piedra Falls Trail

Opal Lake Trail

Pagoda Springs Riverwalk

Chimney Rock National Monument

Madison WI 

Pope Farm Conservancy

A "keyhole" peep at leaves and sun through
massive rocks in Levis Trow Mounds
Image - Lavon Court

Driftless Area

Great River Bluffs State Park, Nodine MN

Upper Hixon Park, La Crosse WI 

Levis Trow Mounds, Black River Falls WI 

Dawn at Temperance River-Carleton Peak SHT trail

North Shore of Lake Superior

Pincushion Mountain, Grand Marais, MN

Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, Two Harbors, MN

Temperance River State Park, Schroeder , MN

Rock scrambling to Wolfman's petroglyph panel
in Bear's Ears National Monument UT
All my Driftless bluff hiking paid off!
Image  - Lee Coveney

Images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters