Tuesday, August 29, 2023

MacGilvray Seven Bridges (WI) Hike/Amble

Bridge #1
If you are interested in a floodplain forest/wetlands/sand prairie/oak savannah hike with historic bridges and a rich history, you can't beat this little gem that wanders through a large wildlife area rich in flora and fauna. 

I discovered this trail a few years ago after seeing a fascinating set of pictures of old bridges in the dining room at the the Trempeleau Hotel in Trempeleau WI. I was told there was a hiking trail there. When I hiked the trail, I was gobsmacked. This is a hiker/naturalist's delight.

Winter hike on the trail
Located in the Van Loon wildlife area, the  trail is an old wagon roadway across the wetlands, savannah and sand prairie floodplain forests of New Amsterdam. The road was originally built in the 1850s for a ferry service across the Black River at the road's end. Eventually, the ferry was replaced by a bridge and six other wooden bridges were built over the marshy backwaters. New steel bowstring bridges were installed at the beginning of the last century. Time and flooding eventually made even those bridges unusable. 

The WI DNR acquired the land and what was left of the bridges in the 1950s. In the late 1980s, Friends and supporters of the historic bridges formed a partnership with the DNR to save what was left of the old bowstring bridges, resulting in the trail we have today. It features five restored bridges plus a sixth that was brought in from Pierce County and restored. You can read more detailed histories of the bridges here and here.

Floodplain forest
But let's talk about the hike. A large parking lot with information kiosks are at the trailhead. You can either start your 3.6 mile out-and-back hike at the wooden stairs or take a road/trail down the hill to the right to hit the main trail. Once down the hill,  you are on a wide, dead-flat trail. 

The first three restored wood-plank bowspring bridges are in the first half mile of the trail. Along this portion of the trail you walk through a rich floodplain forest area. It's hard not to linger at each of this bridges so you can appreciate the ongoing work that the Friends of McGilvray do to keep these wood bridges in good shape.

Oak savannah

Continuing on, you come out of the forest into a huge oak savannah area with a large waterway running along the trail. Sand prairies with flowers abound as the trail begins to narrow and wind through wetland plants. You continue to cross bridges about every .4 miles along the way. You re-enter the floodplain forest just as you finish crossing the 5th bridge (the reclaimed, orange steel bridge transported from Pierce County). The 6th, and actually last, bridge on the trail is a crinkly one that underwent the most repair and restoration.




End of the trail
The seventh bridge that crossed the Black River at trail's end is long gone. It was removed in 1954. A bench at the river's edge let's you sit and imagine when it was once part of busy wagon and early car traffic as part of Hwy 93. But like all things built through wetlands, maintaining infrastructure amidst seasonal flooding is almost impossible.

What we're left with is a beautiful trail that features waterways, abundant bird and wildlife, grasses, prairie and forest wildflowers. And of course the lovingly restored and maintained bridges thanks to the DNR and Friends of McGilvray Road.

Bridge #4 in fall

THE HIKE

This 3.6 mile out-and-back flat trail follows an old wagon road to the edge of the Black River, crossing 6 historic restored steel bridges along the way. This is a great hike for any age/ability since you can turn back at any place along the trail. There is a slight descent at the beginning of the wide trail. The trail narrows about halfway through the hike until you reach it's end at the river's edge where a bench is placed. Hiking here in spring can be challenging because the wetland parts of the trail can be covered under running water. In summer, mosquitoes are fierce throughout the day (drought years like this one open up the summer trail use considerably). Fall and winter are great times to hike/snowshoe the trail. The Van Loon Wildlife Area is also open to hunting during many seasons. Staying on the trail and wearing blaze colors keeps hunters aware of you and helps keep you safe. 

The Location

From La Crosse, take Hwy 53 north. Turn right at Old Hwy 93 (the first right hand turn after the road narrows from 4-lane to 2-lane). Turn right at Amsterdam Prairie Rd. The trailhead is on your left about .6 miles down the road.


All images - Marge Loch-Wouters

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