I Spy on the Trail - May 1-15, 2024

Bishop's cap

Whoa, back to bimonthly phenology observations! So many blooms and bird calls, frog choruses and budding trees in just two weeks. My phenology lists exploded! The warm weather and frequent rain have brought a vibrancy and proliferation of wild things that was muted in the last droughty year. 

The warbler migration has begun in earnest. Every day brought more and different species to my ears and eyes.

Bristly buttercup

Ephemerals are busting out in woodland and wetland walks. Again, every hike brought new wildflower delights popping up. Some are like old friends; others so rare I have to check my identifications to see if I have them right.

I took advantage of some guided hikes during these two weeks. Our surprise guide on Trempealeau Wildlife Refuge’s World Migratory Bird Day birding hike was Stan Tekiela, naturalist and author of many guidebooks to birds around the country. 

Mayapple

I also participated in  BOW (Becoming An Outdoor Woman) hike learning about and then hunting morel mushrooms (success!). Heading into the Drifted area around central WI, friends and I hiked the sand country and eskers of the terminal glacial moraine at Mecan Springs. All those hikes were packed full of interesting details and learning. 

Wetland warbler habitat

I hope you to take advantage of these kinds of guided hikes. They are led by passionate and knowledgeable naturalists who love the land and all it holds. 

And you will hone your own natural naturalist skills!

Plant Life

 

• False rue anemone
• Trout lily
• Bellwort
• Ramps
• Dryad's saddle
• Morel mushrooms
• Virginia bluebells
• Jacob’s ladder
• Two leaf miterwort (Bishop’s cap)
• Cutleaf toothhwort
• Dutchman’s breeches
• Canadian ginger
• Bloodroot
• Littleleaf buttercup
• Bristly buttercup
• Spring beauty
• Wintercress
• Early meadow rue
• Sharplobe hepatica
• Wild geranium
• Pussytoes
• Wood anemone

  

  Virginia bluebells

  
  
• Bladder fern
• Maidenhair fern
• Rattlesnake fern
• Lady fern
• Bulblet fern
• Lowland blader fern
• Sharp-lobed hepatica
• Mugwort
• Rattlesnake plantain
• Fan clubmoss
• Bracken
• Pennsylvania sedge
• Prairie blue-eyed grass
• Starry false Solomon’s seal
• Hoary puccoon
• Jack-in-the-pulpit
• Downy yellow violet
• Violet woodsorrel
• White rattlesnakeroot (unbloomed)
• Dryad’s saddle
• Trillium
•  Nodding wakerobin trillium
• Sweet cecily

Wildlife (seen, heard, detected)

• Osprey

  

  Can you spot the eagle on kin's* nest?

  
  
• Eagle
• Yellow warbler
• Nashville warbler
• Blue-winged warbler 
• Yellow-rumped warbler
• Chestnut-sided warbler
• Prothonotary warbler
• Tennessee warbler
• Palm warbler
• Blackpoll warbler
• Blue-winged warbler
• Cape May warbler
• Blackburnian warbler
• Bay-breasted warbler
• Magnolia warbler
• Wilson’s warbler
• Northern Parula
• Common yellowthroat
• American redstart
• Scarlet tanager
• Summer tanager
• Indigo bunting
• Tufted titmouse
• Field sparrow
• Song sparrow
• White-throated sparrow
• Swamp sparrow
• Rose-breasted grosbeak
• Red-winged blackbird
• Eastern kingbird
• Eastern bluebird
• Goldfinch
• Blue-gray gnatcatcher
• Downy woodpecker
• Red-bellied woodpecker
• Hairy woodpecker
• Pileated woodpecker
• Yellow-bellied sapsucker
• Eastern phoebe
• Northern flicker
• Tree swallow
• Brown thrasher
• Northern waterthrush
• Louisiana waterthrush
• American redstart
• Baltimore oriole
• Orchard oriole 
• Ovenbird
• Chimney swift
• Brown-headed cowbird
• Yellow-throated vireo
• Warbling vireo
• Red-eyed vireo
• Black -capped chickadee
• Eastern towhee
• Northern mockingbird
• American eagle
• Sandhill crane
• Blue heron
• Bluejay
• Wood thrush
• Yellow-bellied flycatcher
• Great crested flycatcher
• Red cardinal butterfly

  

  Meadow Fritillary

  
  
• Monarch butterfly
• Meadow Fritillary
• Swallowtail butterfly
• Spring peepers
• Chorus frog
• Wood fog
• Garter snake
• Painted turtle

What are YOU noticing on your hikes?

Two weeks of hikes:

Duck Egg Trail Loop, Duck Egg County Forest Vernon County, WI; Duck Egg Lower Trail, Duck Egg County Forest, Vernon County WI (2); Mecan Springs Ice Age trail segment, Coloma WI; Whitewater SNA, Altura, MN; Trout Run Creek trail, Whitewater State Park, Altura MN; Reno Quarry, Reno MN; Lytle’s Landing, Brice Prairie WI; Kiep’s Landing, Trempealeau Wildlife Refuge, Trempealeau, WI; Beaver Creek Valley Trail, Bearver Creek Valley State Park, Caledonia MN.

On the hunt (successfully) for warblers
Image - Lloyd Lorenz

                                         All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

*Robin Wall Kimmerer, author of Braiding Sweetgrass (among many books) and enrolled member of the Citizen Potawatomi Nation, suggested in a recent talk that rather than referring to plants, wildlife and other beings found in nature as "it", we use a work like "kin." The word gives agency to the life all around us in nature. It resonates with me.

Duck Egg County Forest (WI) Hike

I was recently introduced to some beautiful trails at a gem of a forest tucked away among the hills and streams in the heart of the Driftless area of Vernon County. Located between Coon Valley and Viroqua, the forest has ten miles of trails for hikers, horses and recreational use for hunters and fishers.

I spent a couple of pleasant mornings exploring one of the main trails - the Duck Egg Trail. The loop part of the trail can be accessed off of Irish Ridge Road from either the Upper or Lower parking lots (map). 

Upper Parking Lot Trailhead

Begin your hike in a large grassy prairie area at the top of the bluff. After a short .25 stroll, you come to a T. We took the loop going right and proceeded through fields and grasses into a woods along an old logging trail on the bluff top.

There is a wonderful overlook atop dramatic rocks in another .3 miles that gives you an excellent view of the valley below. You get your first glimpse of the Springville Branch of the Bad Axe River and of a dam that was built in 1990 to help control the frequent flooding of the Bad Axe. You also start to note concrete front steps (and soon wooden steps) at intervals along the trail; these are used to mount and dismount from horses.

The old logging trail after the overlook begins to descend about 450 feet on a series of switchbacks. The trail winds through a beautiful hardwood forest that is dense with spring ephemerals, ferns and flowers. Once at the bottom, the trails flattens out  for a mile or so as you hike near two large ponds and the Bad Axe among lush bottomlands. During the week I visited in early May, the profusion of bluebells along the river and ponds rivaled anything you can see at Minnesota's justly famous Carley Park.

A view of the overlook
from the valley floor

To complete the loop, we continued on the trail to the left into the wider valley and a close-up view of the dam. The valley was alive with the sound of spring peepers. We crossed a wooden bridge over the river and headed into our final climb to regain the bluff top in two long, steadily upward portions of the trail (got to regain that 450 feet!).We ended our hike of 3.3 miles back at the upper parking lot.

Lower Parking Lot Trailhead
If you continue driving on Irish Ridge Road another 2 miles or so you come to the lower parking trailhead which is well-marked with a Duck Egg Forest sign and ample parking. This is also part of the Duck Egg Trail - but on much flatter trails perfect for those looking for a less challenging out-and-back hike with beautiful scenery.

The hike follows logging roads and narrower dirt trails along the Bad Axe River branch. There are often trout fishers along this section. There are flowers in abundance along with frogs calling in spring and abundant bird life. You cross two bridges and come out in the valley and follow along the two large ponds. You reach a junction that continues along the main Duck Egg trail to the dam.

At this point, after about 1.2 miles, you can turn around and head back the way you came. There is an option to take a side trail after the ponds on your left called the Logger's Loop, which gives you a bit more elevation and mileage of the side of the bluff - or stay on the flatter Duck Egg Trail back to the parking lot.

THE HIKE

Choose the upper tailhead for a challenging 3.5 mile loop hike with overlooks, steep switchbacks, great hardwoods and river valley hiking with birds, flowers and ferns aplenty. The loop starts and ends in a grassy, prairie area atop the bluff. Choose the lower trailhead for a flatter hike beside the river and valley floor for an out-and-back hike of about 2.5 miles. Both hikes give a great view of forests, bottomlands and a profusion of wildlife and plants.

The Location 

Approximately 8 miles west of Viroqua, along Irish Ridge Road off of County Trunk Hwy. Y (43.59154, -91.00192). Both parking lots are large. There is a pit toilet at the Upper Parking Lot trailhead.  

Where's my horse?!? 
Image - Nola Larson

All images (unless noted) - Marge Loch-Wouters

Naturalist’s Corner - For the Birds

May is an amazing time to hike not just for the riot of flowers and plant life but also for the returning songbirds. Whether they stay or are just migrating through, the calls of these birds break the relative silence of our winter woods and prairies. 

Every night brings millions of migrating birds north to their nesting grounds. Birdcast, a website sponsored by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Colorado State University, and University of Massachusetts Amherst provides real time reports of migrations as well as 3 day forecasts. It’s pretty mind blowing to realize how large these migrations are.

We can help birds in these nightly migrations by being aware of how excess lighting at night makes it more difficult for our migratory bird populations. Birdcast recommends actions any of us can do to help the migrating birds at their website:

Turn off non-essential lights from 11 PM until 6 AM during critical migration periods.

• Turn off or dim lobby and atrium lights.
• Turn off or dim interior home lighting, or draw blinds to prevent light escaping.
• Turn off decorative landscape lighting.
• Turn off lights before leaving the home or office.
• Be sure outside lights are aimed down and well shielded.
• Install motion sensors on outside lights to minimize use.

While we love our over-wintering birds like bluejays, cardinals, chickadees and nuthatches, seeing the woods fill again with our migratory birds is delightful. It’s great to welcome back to the woods the eastern towhee, northern water thrush, Baltimore oriole, yellow-throated vireo and other familiar birds who will mate, nest and raise their young here

Right now the warbler migration is just beginning. These sprightly small birds migrate quickly through the Driftless area, primarily in May. Already I’ve seen and heard Nashville, blue-winged, palm and yellow warblers while birding friends have reported the rare prothonotary warblers in wetlands. There are many more warbler species that will be traveling through.

World Migratory Bird Day is coming up on Saturday May 11. It is held annually on the second Saturday in May. Take advantage of guided bird walks to discover and learn more about our migratory birds passing through (check this recent blog post for free birding events  in the Driftless this weekend).

And if you haven’t, please consider downloading and using  the Cornell Lab’s Merlin app as you hike. It helps even amateurs like me more easily identify and learn the songs and calls of birds in woods, prairies and wetlands. And to spot these sometimes elusive birds!

Minnesota Driftless Hiking Trail (MDHT) Development News

I have blogged about the Minnesota Driftless Hiking Trail before. I wanted to update you with some very brief tidbits from their most recent newsletter. There is no doubt in my mind about the hard work that all the MDHT volunteers have been doing to make the following happen. 

I encourage you to access the newsletter by subscribing. It will keep you informed on the MDHT happenings. Just stop by their webpage and sign up for the free email newsletter or check their Facebook page for updates.

Here's some tidbits:

Funding!

Thanks to MN's Environment and Natural Resources Trust Fund (ENRTF), MDHT will soon be receiving over $400,000 to hire a full-time director, trailbuilding equipment and access to a trail design and building consultant. 

Pilot Project Selection!

MDHT was selected this spring as a pilot project for a U of M's grant that provides technical support to community. The team will help with developing digital and print mapping standards; develop trail standards; and create plans to integrate the trail with existing communities that mutually benefit each other.

Mapping Exploration!

A group of hikers have been hiking possible routes and recording GPS data to be used in planning the routes with partners and designers.

501(c) Status Achieved!

Ongoing Fundraising!

Through donations and merchandise sales and partnerships. This remains vital since the MN ENRTF funding is reimbursement-based.

Community Outreach!

Doing presentations throughout SE MN to inform people of the plans and encourage people to volunteer and support the project. Plans are afoot to host the MDHT folks at the La Crescent Public Library in the coming months. Details will follow.

Landowner Outreach!

Ongoing meetings with landowners along possible routes to gage interest and answer questions.

To read all the deets, the spring newsletter is here. Check it out to get the real scoop. It's a great time for hiking!

Frog and Toad Come to Call

Frogs and toads are calling!

How well do you know your frogs and toads? The WI DNR recently posted this video with the mating calls of 12 of WI's frog and toad species. 

The DNR writes "Wisconsin is home to twelve species of frogs, including the American toad. The frogs that you hear calling are males. They do this to attract females during the mating season. Certain species can only be distinguished by their call."

Happy hiking - and keep your ears open for these spring calls!

Let's Get Hiking and Learning - May 2024

There's lots of great opportunities in May to get outdoors to learn something new and hike as well! I've listed  a few events I've come across. Click on the event title to find a link to the event or organization.

Be sure to check often with local hiking groups, universities, naturalist-interest groups, nature conservancies, nature centers and their Friends groups, state parks, US Fish and Wildlife centers and others in your area to see what is on offer to help you understand the natural world around you better.

I am including a late entry that happens April 23 sponsored by Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge. Their guided hikes are AMAZING!!

Spring Bird Walk

 - Tuesday, April 23      6-7:30pm

 - Lytle's Landing Canoe Access, Lytle Road, Onalaska, WI 54650. Please park at the Brice Prairie Conservation Association Clubhouse on Lytle Road

n celebration of the upcoming World Migratory Bird Day, join refuge staff and partners on a bird identification walk through the floodplain forest! We’ll walk one mile or less during this FREE, informal program. We often see many birds close by and our pace will be more of a bird “crawl”!

Please help us make this a good experience for all participants by leaving pets at home. Registration is NOT required. A limited number of binoculars will be available to borrow on a first-come, first-served basis. Bird walks take place rain or shine but may be cancelled if there’s a high probability of thunderstorms. We’ll be walking along the Great River State Trail on a mostly flat surface of gravel or wooden boardwalk. World Migratory Bird Day events take place across our community and across the world to raise awareness for the need to conserve migratory birds and their habitats. This year’s theme is “protect insects, protect birds.” Learn more on our national website: https://www.fws.gov/.../world-migratory-bird-day-2024.  Sponsor: Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge

Guided Bird Hike

 - Saturday, May 4       9-11:00 am

 - Frontenac State Park

Free uided bird walk with FSPA members Janet Malotky and Steve Dietz, leaving from campground kiosk. Walk through a mixed habitat of prairie and woodland, looking for resident and early migrating birds that specialize in these areas. The trail is mowed grass and is well maintained. Bring your binoculars or borrow some from the park office. No need to register. If you have any questions, email janetmalotky@gmail.com. Sponsors: Frontenac State Park and Frontenac State Park Association

Friends of McGilvray Road 7 Bridges 35th Anniversary Celebration

 - Saturday May 4      1-3:00pm

 - N8327 Amsterdam Prairie Rd, Holmen

Events include trial history, guided hikes , scavanger nature hunt and more at this free event. Vehicles will be available for special needs so all have access to the trail. Email Ruth Scholze at rscholze73@gmail.com if you need special assistance. Sponsor: Friends of McGilvray Road 7 Bridges

Spring Bird Walk

 - Tuesday, May 7      6-7:30pm

 - Shady Maple Interpretive Trail at Goose Island County Park: W6488 County Road GI, Stoddard, WI 

n celebration of the upcoming World Migratory Bird Day, join refuge staff and partners on a bird identification walk through the floodplain forest! We’ll walk one mile or less during this FREE, informal program. We often see many birds close by and our pace will be more of a bird “crawl”!

Please help us make this a good experience for all participants by leaving pets at home. Registration is NOT required. A limited number of binoculars will be available to borrow on a first-come, first-served basis. Bird walks take place rain or shine but may be cancelled if there’s a high probability of thunderstorms. We’ll be walking along the Great River State Trail on a mostly flat surface of gravel or wooden boardwalk. World Migratory Bird Day events take place across our community and across the world to raise awareness for the need to conserve migratory birds and their habitats. This year’s theme is “protect insects, protect birds.” Learn more on our national website: https://www.fws.gov/.../world-migratory-bird-day-2024.  Sponsor: Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge

Grand Meadow Chert Quarry - Wanhi Yukan 

 - Wednesday, May 8      10 am -noon

 - Whitewater State Park

Our monthly H.O.P. program (Healthy Older People). Archaeologist Tom Trow has been working for four years with the Mower County Historical Society and the Dakota Community of Prairie Island at an extraordinary archaeological site east of Austin. Tom will present the latest research about how numerous tribal communities, a thousand years ago, used the “chert” (or flint) from this quarry for making stone tools - and why this once was the most important place in southeastern Minnesota. He will also preview the plans for opening a public walking trail and interpretive signage at the site this summer. Sponsor: the Friends of Whitewater State Park

Guided Nature Hike

 - Friday, May 10         1-1:45 pm

 - Frontenac State Park

Celebrate the fishing opener weekend with a guided hike to the sandy shores of Lake Pepin! Join us at Frontenac State Park’s Sand Point Trail to hike through a floodplain forest and wet meadow while learning about the ecology of the lands adjoining Lake Pepin and the flora and fauna that call them home. The event will begin at the Sand Point parking lot off US 61 at 1:00 p.m.; the total distance hiked will be approximately 1.7 miles over mostly level ground. In the event of intense spring flooding along the Mississippi, an alternate location will be chosen for the event. In the event of inclement weather, the event will be cancelled. This event is free. Sponsors: Frontenac State Park and Frontenac State Park Association

Migratory Birding Hike

- Saturday May 11     7-9:00 am

- Sugar Creek Bluff SNA

In celebration of World Migratory Bird Day, a free guided birding walk is being offered to the public. Enjoy the sights and sounds of spring in a beautiful, natural setting as you stroll through the blufflands while learning more about these migratory birds. Guiding this year’s walk will be Krysten Zummo, Gwyn Calvetti and Dr. Stefan Gleissberg, along with staff and volunteers. Participants will be guided in small groups in how to listen for, watch, and identify the various birds that are returning to or passing through the area after wintering as far away as South America. Some binoculars (about a dozen) will be available for those who would like to borrow them. Registration required. Sponsor: Mississippi Valley Conservancy

Carley State Park Bluebell Festival

 - Saturday, May 11   9am - 3pm

 - Carley State Park, 4 miles south of Plainview MN on Wabasha Co. Rd. 4.

Come celebrate the beauty of our spring bluebells, in abundance at Carley State Park. A variety of activities will be offered throughout the day including a family scavenger hunt, Mother's Day card making for kids, and archery for ages 8 and older. Guided Wildflower walks will start at 9 a.m., 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. Free, no registration. More info, call Jeremy Darst at 507 312-2301

World Migratory Bird Day

 - Saturday May 11       7:00am - 12:30 pm

  - Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge, Trempealeau WI

Each year the Refuge celebrates WMBD to encourage support for migratory bird conservation. The theme for this year’s installment of the annual celebration is “Protect Insects, Protect birds”. Join us for a few hours or for the whole celebration!  This is an event for the whole family! Sponsor: Trempealeau Wildlife Refuge

Wilderness Weekends with Emily

 - Saturday, May 11               9:30-11:30 am
 - Winona MN - Location TBD
Come and discover the fascinating aquatic world of Lake Winona and the marvelous creatures that call it home! Our free program will delve into the fundamentals of macro-invertebrates and other aquatic species thriving in the lake. We'll gather samples and conduct observations to identify each species. This event is perfect for families and offers a fun-filled way to get ready for summer while enhancing your critical thinking abilities through hands-on activities! Wilderness Weekends, led by Emily Gorman, is an environmental education program offering an immersive experience to explore the ecosystems and ecological treasures of Winona County. Join us to discover, appreciate, and protect the region's natural wonders. Sponsor: Winona Outdoor Collaborative

Guided Fungi Walk

- Saturday, May 11 10-11:30 am

 - Frontenac State Park

Volunteer Master Naturalist Pam Miller will lead a fungi walk from the campground shower building. The walk will focus on fungi species and habitat in the park and the relationship between trees and mushrooms. You’re wondering – will we find any MORELS? Maybe, but don’t count on it – part of the allure of looking for wild mushrooms is that they’re tricky and elusive! This event is free. Sponsors: Frontenac State Park and Frontenac State Park Association

Kids Fishing Day

- Saturday May 18 8:30am - noon

  - Genoa National Fish Hatchery, S5631 State Hwy 35, Genoa WI

Calling all youth anglers’ ages 5-12 years old! Come and enjoy a morning of learning and fishing @ the Genoa National Fish Hatchery for our Kids Fishing Day!  Registration begins 8:30am - 9:00am Event consist of four learning stations focusing on fish ID and habitats, fisheries conservation, boat safety, and mussels. After an hour of learning they will be set loose on a hatchery pond stocked with 2,500 10-14 inch rainbow trout to test their new found fishing knowledge. Poles and bait are provided. No outside bait allowed. Due to safety concerns and space limitations, no artificial lures, fly fishing, and/or treble hooks will be allowed at the event. Hope to see you there! Questions? Please call Erica Rasmussen, 608-689-2605  Sponsors: Genoa National Fish Hatchery and Friends of the Upper Mississippi 

Historic Marnach House Open House
 - Saturday, May 18         10am-4pm

 - Elba MN

Wagon rides given at the top of each hour with tours given at the house. Crafters on site and free snack and beverage for all. Come out and enjoy the house and its history and the Whitewater Valley along the way.. The Nicholas Marnach House is the restored home of a Luxembourgian pioneer family in Whitewater Township, Minnesota, United States, built 1857–1860. The house is about 3mi north of Elba, Minnesota, within the Whitewater Wildlife Management Area, a state wildlife preserve adjacent to Whitewater State Park. Updates on the even can be found on this Facebook page

An Afternoon of Environmental Education

 - Saturday, May 18        2:00-5:00pm

 - Kiwanis Shelter, Winona Park & Recreation

1340 Prairie Island RoadWinona

Join us and Happy Dancing Turtle for an afternoon of environmental education! Each organization will present on environmental education, followed by an open house-style event to engage with activities and materials provided. Registration required. Sponsor: Winona Outdoor Collaborative

Saturday Morning Hike with a Naturalist

- Saturday, May 25 10 am

 - Frontenac State Park

Take a short, guided hike with volunteer naturalist, Bruce Ause! Bruce will lead visitors along trails through the upland area of the park pointing out a variety of natural features as they are encountered. Dress for the weather and bring sun and tick protection. Binoculars and cameras are nice accessories, but not necessary. The hike will last about an hour. This event is free. Vehicles entering the park are required to have a State Park vehicle permit. Permits are $7 per day or $35 for an annual sticker. These hikes continue weekly throughout the summer and into early fall. Sponsors: Frontenac State Park and Frontenac State Park Association

Falcons Live - Raptor Program

- Sunday May 26 11am-1:00pm

 - Frontenac State Park

Meet at the Ranger Station. he peregrine falcon has long fascinated people across the globe, known for its dramatic migration and amazing flight. Where 60 years ago there were none, today nearly 350 nesting pairs of falcons make their home in the Upper Midwest. Jackie Fallon, with the Midwest Peregrine Society, will present this program with several live birds to help us understand the past, present and future of peregrine falcons in Frontenac State Park, Minnesota, and Upper Midwest. Make sure to bring your camera for a great opportunity to see these amazing birds. The event will take place right next to the ranger station. This event is free. Vehicles need to display a valid MN State Park Permit upon entering park. Please stop by the office or purchase beforehand. $7 one-day permit, $35 year-round permit. Sponsors: Frontenac State Park and Frontenac State Park Association

Artists Along the Trail - Plein Air Event

 - Saturday June 1        7:00 am - 1:00 pm

 - Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge
Come celebrate National Trails Day with us! Over a dozen artist will be set up creating plein-air art along trails at the refuge. Visitors are encouraged to engage with the participating artists creating plein-air art from 7:00 - 11:00 am and see their creative process. Visitors are invited to the Outdoor Wonders Learning Center from 11:30 am - 1:00 pm where artists will set up their easels to share their morning work. Snacks and beverages will be provided. Sponsor: the Friends of Trempealeau Refuge.

Many Artists from the refuge event will be displaying their artwork in the Crush Pad at Elmaro Vineyard & Winery during the Month of June.

Yellow River State Forest Hike- Paint Rock Unit Trails - IA

Paint Rock Overlook

I started hiking the trails in Yellow River State Forest of Iowa last November during the gun deer season in Wisconsin and Minnesota. A group of friends and I wanted to hike freely without worrying about crowded woods and sometimes incautions deer-season-only hunters.

This state forest is located right along the Mississippi River not far from the Effigy Mounds National Monument near Harper's Ferry. It has dramatic steep hills and high bluffs which make for great hiking. As a former tree plantation, it also has old roads for many trails so the hiking can be pretty easy on wide old roadbeds.I began my exploration with a few visits to Luster Heights unit last fall. 

From there, I headed over into the Paint Rock Unit blufftop trails. There are two trailheads to explore the four miles of the main blufftop trails (Mississippi, Big Bear and Mud Hen). Both trailheads are just south of Harper's Ferry. While I split my hikes into two different days so I could scout both trailheads, the hike from either trailhead as an out-and-back can definitely be done as one hike.

Ravines on Mississippi Trail

The reward: dramatic ravines and oak forests with clear understories; abundant wildlife and plant life and interesting up and down and twisting trails that take you for miles of gorgeous hiking.

Paint Rock Trailhead (off Paint Rock Road): The first half mile of Paint Rock Trail goes gradually up on an old logging road through beautiful forests of oak and deciduous trees. You come to a junction and can take the Big Bear or Mississippi trails or continue on the Paint Rock trail.

Mississippi Trailhead (off IA Hwy 364)

This trailhead, tucked into a small bluffside parking lot right past the boat landing sign south of Harper's Ferry, takes you steeply up 300 feet for .6 miles along a narrow dirt and rock trail between steep ravines festooned with plant life. The steep ravine walls give dramatic views of rocks and clear canopied forest sides. You scramble up and down a few ravine crossings at various points. The Mud Hen loop trail goes to the right and is a pleasant loop that takes you along the cliffside with views of the Mississippi. This is a more challenging hiking entrance but the rewards - abundant flowers and truly awesome views of ravine walls and rock formations - sell me on this one!

Goat prairie at Paint Rock Overlook

Once at the top, you can stay on the Paint Rock Trail 3/4 of a mile towards the south overlook through a pine forest and oak forest. If you are using the Mississippi trailhead, you can stay on that trail for 2 miles along the cliffside and through ravines to the overlook.  The views of the Mississippi River and its sloughs are spectacular. Effigy mounds, a beautiful goat prairie, rocks wildflowers and abundant birdlife are found here. 

Junctions of trails have wood posts with arrows indication direction and trail names which is helpful. On all narrow bluff top trails that go through the oak leaves, be sure to watch for yellow blazes on trees. It is easy to lose the trail. I used my AllTrails app in spots where there are new blowdowns and it wasn't clear where the trail was.

.

IA DNR map

THE HIKE

There's actually a trail here!

An outstanding series of blufftop trails (covers about 4 miles of hiking on top) that can be accessed from either one of two trailheads. The Paint Rock Rd trailhead is less steep on a wide logging road; the Hwy 364 trailhead is narrow and dramatic as you wind along ravine walls. The mature, canopied forest of oaks and other deciduous trees leaves a clear forest floor so it's easy to explore off-trail. Yellow blazes on trees are huge help when navigating the narrower, leaf-covered trails but bring along a map app as well to help you in areas of blow-down. Spectacular views, abundant wildflowers, effigy mounds and goats prairies make this an amazing hike.

The Location

Paint Rock Road Trailhead hike - 400 ft elevation over about .6 mile wide grassy logging road 
It's a bit tricky to find this trailhead. It is about 1/4 mile off IA highway 364 on the right hand side. You will see a wooden forest sign and a small parking lot. Continue beyond it to the second larger lot by the gate. 

Hwy 364 Trailhead hike - 500 Ft elevation over .5 mile narrow steep dirt and rock strewn trail with some scrambling down and up ravine crossings

Follow Hwy 364 south of Harper's Ferry until you see a boat landing sign on the right. The trail parking lot entrance is immediately after this sign on the right. You will see a brown and yellow Yellow River State Forest sign once you make the turn into this parking lot. 

All images (unless noted) - Marge Loch-Wouters