Monday, October 30, 2023

Driftless Hiking Info Program Coming Up!

Wildcat Mountain (WI) State Park
Image - Lloyd Lorenz
On Wednesday, Nov 8 from 10am-noon at Whitewater State Park, I will be presenting a free program on hiking trails in the Driftless area hosted by the Friends of Whitewater State Park's H.O.P. (Healthy Older People) series. I hope you can come! No registration is needed.

The Driftless area and Driftless-adjacent areas are full of unique and diverse hiking trails and hiking experiences. 

So what's on tap at the program?

Discover well-known as well as more obscure trails that can be found in our nearby state parks, communities and rural areas. From bluffs to prairies, from wetlands to river's edge, from paved and flat to wild, rocky and steep, there's a trail perfect for everyone to hike in our area of MN and nearby in WI. 

We'll take a look at hikes perfect for retirees; families; active bluff and goat prairie climber/hikers; people recovering from illness and injury and more. And we'll touch on the wonders of hiking year-round.

I'll be sharing information about the proposed Minnesota Driftless Hiking Trail, a backpacking trail project that hopes to connect from the Whitewater area all the way to the Mississippi River. And finally, you'll get a tour of my hiking blog and how best to access the info that matches your needs as you make your hiking plans.

I hope you can join me to share your favorite hikes and discoveries you've made in the Driftless too. You're bound to leave with a "hope-to-hike" list with hikes perfect for your needs and situation! And have fun learning about things that will shock, delight and get you back into nature with renewed enthusiasm.

Something spooky on
Lost Creek Trail, Chatfield
Image - Kris Lawson




Standing atop the "spinal column" rocks
at Reno Quarry, Brownsville MN
Image - Lloyd Lorenz

Sunday, October 29, 2023

I Spy on the Trails - Oct 15 - 31, 2023



Temperatures for these two weeks started in the balmy mid-50s and headed into the 60s for a day or two. We have had some foggy starts to the days which makes blufftop hiking particularly notable not for the obscured views but for the lovely rolling fog coiling and roiling below the high bluffs. 

This last weekend finally brought the frost I’ve been expecting (plus some snowflakes) for the past few weeks and daytime temps in the 40s. Still, I can't help but feel we are in for another record warm month in October.

The autumn colors were on full display in our neck of the woods. One of the most stunning drives to see them is along the MN bluffs as you drive Hwy 61 between La  Crescent and Winona. The leaves have progressed from stunning bright blazing colors two weeks ago to the more muted golds, browns and russets of the last leaves this week. Wind and rain tell me even these leaves won’t last much longer.

I wasn’t alone in hitting the trails often during the past two weeks to enjoy the light filtering through the golden leaves. While most undergrowth has died back, the fungi and ferns are having a glorious time. It has made the past two weeks of hikes a marvelous experience. 

Wildflowers/Plants

  • Yellow coneflower
    Crowded parchment mushroom

  • Yarrow
  • New England aster
  • Hairy aster
  • Calico aster
  • Wild blue aster
  • Smooth blue aster 
  • Aromatic aster
  • Brown-eyed Susan 
  • Zigzag goldenrod
  • Spinulose woodfern
  • Lady fern
  • Maidenhair fern
  • Interrupted fern
  • Evening primrose
  • Goldenrod
  • Fly agaric mushroom
  • Resinous polypore 
  • Puffballs
  • Hairy curtain fungus
  • Crowded parchment fungus
  • Agueweed, species of dwarf gentian
  • American bladder nut
  • Sharp-lobed hepatica

Wildlife (seen/hear/detected)
Wooly caterpillar in a bootprint

  • Wooly caterpillar
  • Pileated woodpecker
  • Black-capped chickadee
  • Red-wing blackbird
  • European starling
  • Robin
  • Nuthatch
  • Bluebird


What are YOU noticing on your hikes?

Two weeks of hikes:  Great River Bluffs State Park, Nodine MN; Mathy Quarry Rim Trail, La Crosse WI; Coulee Experimental Forest, La Crosse County, WI; Riverside Park-Myrick Park Marsh Trail, La Crosse WI; Wagon Wheel Trail, La Crescent, MN; Reno Quarry, Brownsville MN; Appleblossom Overlook Park, Winona County MN; Lost Creek Trail, Chatfield MN

Image - Kris Lawson

The "I Spy on the Trails" column is a phenology (the study of seasonal changes in plants and animals) journal to chronicle year-round the weather, plant life and wildlife I observe while hiking. It is very useful in helping me compare observations from year-to-year. The column is published monthly from September through April and then twice-a-month from May through August when warm weather brings the natural world back to vibrant life.  

All images, unless noted, Marge Loch-Wouters


Friday, October 27, 2023

Coulee Experimental State Forest (WI) Hike - Russlan Coulee Trailhead

At the trailhead expansive views of the forest
The Coulee Experimental State Forest is tucked away in the rolling hills near Bangor WI. According to the WI DNR's website, "this 3,000 acre forest is used for long-term forest watershed research studies to develop land management practices. Coulee accurately describes the area, as the forest has many deep gulches and ravines."

The forest features a number of trails that primarily follow old roads around the huge property. One road trailhead, the Russlan Coulee Road, actually was used to drive between Barre Mills and Bangor. As such it features old bridges and culverts - and a trailhead at each end of the forest where people drove between the two communities! 

Old roads create wide trails
perfect for hiking/skiing
These extensive roads create wide, easily walked - and for skiers in winter - easily skiied (groomed for both classic and skate ski) trails. These ski trails and hikes are primarily at the top of the bluff.  During warmer months, the trails are often mowed. We noticed on our most recent hike that one road had been upgraded and newly graveled. 

We chose a through-hike route rather than and out and back loop for this particular hike. We left one vehicle on the westside Russlan Coulee lower trailhead. Then we dropped off the other car at the Cty Rd II trailhead (opposite Antony Rd) at the top of the bluff and hit the trail.

Peak colors!

You can follow the gravel road on the hike or zig left into the woods on an old dirt road following the North Loop trail. It winds through a beautiful hardwood forest as well as pines. The trail rolls up and down as you wind along. After about a mile and a half, you emerge into an intersection of trails - one can take you down the other side of the bluff to the east Russlan Coulee trailhead near Bangor; one can take you further along the North Loop to additional trail spurs; one can take you down to the west Russlan Coulee trailhead.

We followed the rim for a bit of exploring before turning back and heading down the steep trail back to the weat Russlan Coulee trailhead. If we had done just a straight through-hike, I would guesstimate we would have had about a 2-2.5 mile hike. Ferns and fungi were out in profusion and we hit peak color so the hike was particularly beautiful on this sunny day.

THE HIKE

Great for listening for/spotting birds, prolific plant life (oh, those ferns) and a bumper crop of fungi, you can choose your own adventure on these trails during warmer months. While we did a 3.6 mile through-hike with some exploring added in, you can add or subtract miles depending on your choices. State-provided trail maps are somewhat confusing - not all trailheads are listed on each different map they provide online. An app like AllTrails can help. This forest has hunting so wearing bright colors during small game hunting seasons is highly recommended. I would not recommend this hike during gun deer season.

Location - La Crosse County WI

I can't say it better than the WI DNR page. Just a heads-up. There is currently (10/27/23) road construction on Hwy 162 of I-90 so the western entrance way is your best bet until that clears up.


Images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

Looking for more area hikes? Please stop by the web version of the blog and under the "Labels" tab on the right hand side of the blog, click on "find-a-hike". There are over 75 hike descriptions and lists of hikes to try!

Tuesday, October 24, 2023

Hiking Groups - Try Them, You'll Like Them!

One of the pleasures I’ve found in hiking in the Driftless is discovering the MANY groups that exist around the area that coordinate or sponsor hikes. 

Driftless Drifters Hiking club pals on 
 Mathy Quarry's Snakeroot Trail
Image - Marge Loch-Wouters
While I have always done a lot of hiking, it was mostly with family and a few close friends. My first weekly group experience was with our local Driftless Drifters back at it’s beginning in 2021. Sponsored by the La Crescent-Hokah Community Ed Department, the group opened my eyes to the many trails that I had never tried locally. 

Each hike was not only a discovery of new trails but a feast of information shared by the hikers themselves. Flower and plant identification, bird calls noted and birds named and spotted, insects noted, fungi found and identified. That sharing enriched the trail for me and piqued my curiosity. It's a big reason why I went ahead and became certified as a MN Master Naturalist. I wanted to know even more.

Winona's TakeAHike club and the Driftless Drifter's
Amblers meet for a joint hike at
Great River Bluff State Park
Image - Greg Watson
I joined other groups like the Driftless area's Blufflands Hiking group and Jabberwalkers. I also began meeting people in other groups like the La Crosse-based Trek-N-Treaters and Winona-based TakeAHike group. I have hiked with some of those groups and discovered even more trails to try and friends to meet. Becoming active in conservation clubs like the Sierra Club or Friends of a local nature center, state park or outdoor area also means you will find like-minded trail hounds. Women Who Hike - MN chapter has also been a rich well of hiking adventures and hiking meet-up possibilities. 

Plus meeting so many other people with a shared love of nature, the outdoors, phenological curiosity, adventure and challenge is great fun. Those friendships on the trail developed, for me, into a great network of hiking friends who are up for hikes any time of the week and year - not just during weekly hikes. I hike a couple of times a week with friends I've met from the groups I've participated in.

On the Levis Mound trail with the 
Blufflands Hiking group
Image - Steve Dawson

If you are looking to spark up your hiking and find new people to share the trails with I highly  recommend checking into what is happening in your community. Or starting your own group of nature lovers on the trail! 

Hiking friends from the Trek-N-Treaters hiking club
in La Crosse County's Coulee Experimental Forest
Image - Marge Loch-Wouters

The world outside is waiting for you - and so are your new friends!


Friday, October 20, 2023

Hiking the Drifted - North Shore/BWCAW

Over the past four weeks, I twice found myself up on Minnesota's North Shore for hiking and paddling adventures lasting a week each. I always enjoy hiking areas with different geological characteristics. And much like hiking in the southwestern US, the North Shore has a ton of great geology and challenging hikes thanks to glaciers and the pyrotechnics of the land's formation.

The first week was primarily a paddling vacation with my canoeing buddies into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) out of Ely, MN. I was testing out my shoulder after a year-long rehab to see if 6 hour paddles and portaging our Wenonah canoe were still in my toolbox. Mission accomplished - they are. 

Can still portage and paddle!

The second week, my honey and I headquartered near Grand Marais for hikes and leaf-peeping in the Superior National Forest along the Gunflint Trail, in the Sawtooth Mountains and along Hwy 61.

I had plenty of great hiking adventures throughout those two weeks. These trails feature sharp, steep inclines and winding, twisting and often-tree-root-ridden trails. The evidence of the imperviousness of Canadian Shield rock screams at you as you tackle these trails. Finding "easy" or flat trails is a completely different venture than in the Driftless area. I find this hiking good for the soul and soles.

My hikes included:

Eighteen Lake

Eighteen Lake,
Superior National Forest, Tofte District

Located near Isabella, MN off Hwy 1

This 2.9 mile hikes closely follows the shore of a small lake located in the Superior National Forest. Wetlands, hardwood forests, pines, small creeks and a few steep climbs to outlooks are all rolled up in this hike. The trail is clear although a bit overgrown in low-lying areas. The two or three steep climbs are primarily in the section to the right of the small (4 sites) rustic campground. The views are so worth it! I would rate this as moderate due to overgrowth on many parts of the trail and extremely steep hills to the outlook.

Dry Lake Trail
Dry Lake Trail,  Superior National Forest, Kawishiwi District

Located near Ely MN off Hwy 116

This is a loop trail but we decided to do an out-and-back after talking to hikers who said the northwest section of the loop was very difficult due to so many large rocks and exposed roots. We hiked 2.5 miles from the Basswood Lake trailhead and back. The trail is rolling and twisty with a number of outlooks along the way that give dramatic views of Basswood Lake. There is a small waterfall that was very dry this time of year but it was definitely a fun if challenging hike with elevation gains of 275 feet. I would rate this as moderate.


View from Wolf Rock
Wolf Rock, Superior Hiking Trail, Castle Danger to Gooseberry Segment

Located near Castle Danger, on Hwy 106, off Hwy 61

While this trail segment of the SHT heads approximately 9 miles to Gooseberry Falls, we were most interested in the very first half-mile section that leads to Wolf Rock. For a quick but steep hike, the reward is expansive views of Superior National Forest, Crow Creek Valley, Lake Superior and the Sawtooth Mountains. Not bad for a mile out-and-back!  Like almost all SHT segments, the trail up and down is seriously serious - but once up on the ridge the hike is easy - and those views!

My new fascination -
rockcap ferns at Topper Lake portage
Topper Lake Portage, BWCAW, Superior National Forest, Gunflint District

Off the Gunflint Trail, Forest Rd 317 (Mayhew Lk Rd)

A small sweet trail (especially sweet without a canoe to portage!) through wetlands and mixed forest features a huge boulder strewn area with ferns, lichen and moss growing everywhere. Less than a mile but a great stretch when driving up the trail to the Chik-Wauk Museum at the end or the Trail Center restaurant in the middle of the Gunflint Trail for the best malts and shakes around.



Divide Lake

Divide Lake Trail
, Superior National Forest, Tofte District

Near Isabella MN, off 600 Rd.

Tucked deeply into the forest, this beautiful canoe lake straddles the Laurentian Divide. On one side of the Divide, the waters drain to Lake Superior; on the other, the waters drain to Hudson Bay (Divide Lake's waters drain to Superior). This 2.7 mile hike was probably the flattest of all these hikes. It meandered around the larger lake on the east side of the road. The trailhead is at the 3-site rustic campground. There are a number of benches along the trail that winds gently up and down through hardwood and pine forests. There is a backpack site to peek at on a spur off the trail. 


Temperance River Loop
Image - Lloyd Lorenz

Temperance River Loop
, Temperance State Park

Near Silver Bay on Hwy 61

A popular hike is best done on a cool early morning with rain threatening. It guarantees few to no people on the whole trail! This 2.5 mile hike starts dramatically following the falls and gorges of the Temperance River as you climb and clamber up rocks and rock stairs to a multitude of stone-fenced lookouts along the first 1/4 mile of the trail. The Gitchi-Gami bike path crosses the trail at the bridge. From there you continue to ascend as the river slows. Continuing on this 2.7 mile loop, you once more climb steeply to another set of falls (more difficult to see) before turning and heading through gorgeous hardwood forest to rejoin the gorge trail for the final quarter mile back to the trailhead. The iconic stone fences and amazing views and the seldom-hiked back part of the loop keeps this hike as one our favorite of the massively used state park trails on the North Shore.

All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters



Wednesday, October 18, 2023

Plans Afoot - Backpacking Trail in Southeastern MN

 

Marty Walsh has a dream! 

While working in community development in Fillmore County, Walsh was looking over maps of the county and surrounding areas. He realized that there were many areas of public land that could be utilized - along with private land used with permission - to make a 100 mile backpacking/hiking trail between Chatfield MN and the Mississippi River near Brownsville MN.

Marty was inspired by the Lost Creek Trail (Chatfield MN) that 7 landowners developed and built cooperatively between Chatfield and Jordan Township. He also thought about backpacking trails like Ice Age Trail, Superior Hiking Trail and other trails that wind through state and national forest land and along connecting roadways and landowner and campground easements.  It could be done!

And so the Minnesota Driftless Hiking Trail effort began. 

The MDHT vision: "a 100+ mile backpacking trail across the Driftless area of Minnesota in the style of the National Scenic and Recreational Trails, supported by volunteers and operating as an independent organization."

The gray area in the proposed corridor below outlines all areas within which the trail could run, depending on landowner agreements to cross property or the use of only public land and paved roads. 


Nothing is set in stone at this point. Alot of the direction the trail will take depends on ongoing work spreading the word and connecting to agencies, working with the MN DNR, landowners and other local, state and national trail associations to see what could work in southeastern MN. At the moment, everything is in flux. The goal for the trail is to have it develop in a way that involves willing  participants and volunteers who are excited to see this trail developed and come through their area. So far so good!

This is a project that needs lots of volunteers and cooperating landowners. Over the past three years, MDHT has developed a solid leadership team of skilled volunteers, gotten agreements from 20 land owners along the corridor (with more in the pipeline), engaged with communities, nature centers, campgrounds and more to grow the network of possibility. 

Marty Walsh and Andy Petzold 
on "test run for proposed MDHT, June 2022
Image -Marty Walsh
In June 2022, MDHT folks did a "test" hike along a 25 mile segment of what could become part of the trail. They hiked only on existing trails, public lands and connecting roadways. They were looking at the possibilities for camping on the trail, water access, how the trails were - and, of course, enjoyed the incredible views, wet stream crossings and boots on these trails. The test run - to prove this trail could work  - was a success.

The MDHT board is currently engaged in filing for non-profit status. In addition, they submitted a $425,000 project to fund trail building supplies, print materials and an executive director for three years through the Environment and Natural Resources Trust Fund (half of all MN lottery ticket sales go to this fund)  The Legislative Citizen Committee on MN Resources has included the MDHT in their FY2024 Funding Recommendation. The LCCMR recommendation will be voted on by the MN legislature in February or March (with the money available July 2024 if the recommendation is successfully passed).  

The leadership team has also spent a great deal of time working with the MN DNR on exploring legal agreements and leases for parts of the trail that they hope to have on state lands. This work in particular is delicate because of the scope of land uses supported in the State Forest lands.

The overall goal is by 2027 to have the basic trail set and maps of the trail (including connecting roads) so people can hike. While work will need to be done beyond that date (think of this as a 20 year project), the basic plan would be in place.

Ambitious? Maybe. But if you attended Marty's update in February this year at Eagle Bluff Environmental Center in Lanesboro, you can see the steady progress being made. My notes from that February 11 presentation in Lanesboro and the more recent October 14 update in Caledonia reflect that.

You can support the work the work in a number of ways: donations; buying cool merch and signing up for the newsletter. Let your MN legislative rep know that you are in support of the MDHT project in the Environmental and Natural Resources Trust Fund recommendations that comes up for a vote this coming spring. If you know landowners in the corridor, speak to them and encourage them to reach out to the MDHT folks through the website. If you live in the corridor shown in the graphic above, you can also host a presentation by Marty to help spread the information about the trail to local folks in your community. 

There are also opportunities to collect data on formal trails and features: parking lots, logging roads, hunter trails - as well as informal ones like social camps, game trails etc. It helps the MDHT folks to better know the existing routes in State Forests and on private land. Maps can be mailed in.gpx format to MNDriftlessHikingTrail@gmail.com

All these ways big and small will help make this dream a reality!

from the MN Driftless Hiking Trail website


Sunday, October 15, 2023

I Spy on the Trails - Oct 1-15, 2023

It’s been a long and languorous fall. We received some rain over the past two weeks (and a lot going into this weekend) which got the lawns around town pretty excited. Temperatures finally began to hit our more usual 50s-60s F and a first nip of frost here and there brought us briefly into the mid-30s. A precipitous 2 week drop! While some mourn the cooler days, I welcome the crisper temps I hope are coming. With September on record as one of the hottest months world-wide, we are seeing real-time results of accelerating climate change.

I spent some time up on the North Shore on MN this past week and was treated to some new plants and fungi. It was really pleasant driving back and forth and seeing the colors change as we headed north than back south on the 350 mile trip. 

I came across a lovely blog post from the Friends of the Blufflands this week. Written by Jon Rigden, it talks about this time of year and the profusion of asters along the trails. Each flower gets it's special time and, for asters, its now.

Also profuse this year are the acorns!  From the Driftless up through MN’s northwoods, we have been crunching over oodles of acorns on our hardwood forest trail hikes. The oaks are having a “mast” year where an oak might produce up to 10.000 acorns rather than the more usual 2000. Mast years occur in an irregular cycle about every 5 years. During mast years, the oaks slow their growth and put all their energy into seed production. What is particularly curious is that oaks across wide regions seem to synchronize their mast seeding. While people often attribute this to a coming colder winter or drought year, scientists are still studying exactly why and how this is happening. For now, let’s just say it’s a wonder of nature.

The vegetation continues to die back along the trails and the birds are more silent. Warblers appear to be flitting quickly through. We are still waiting for the bulk of the geese and swan migrations that peaks in late October and through November. 

Colors in the Driftless are just starting to peak but the frost may turbo-charge the color. Be sure to get to rim trails and overlooks these next few weeks to soak up the colors of the final party thrown by the trees. No one wants to miss that!

Wildflowers

Rockcap ferns crown a huge boulder
in the BWCAW

  • Blue-wood aster
  • Calico aster
  • White snakeroot
  • Lady fern
  • Maidenhair fern
  • Interrupted fern
  • Rockcap fern
  • Evergreen wood fern
  • Spinulose woodfern 
  • Long beechfern
  • Lady fern
  • Sweet fern
  • Agueweed, a dwarf gentian
  • Sky blue aster
  • Smooth blue aster
  • Hoary alyssum 
  • Harebell
  • Hairy aster
  • Aromatic aster
  • Yarrow
  • Chicory
  • Indian grass
  • Big bluestem
  • Heal-all
  • Golden pholiata fungi
  • Prickly tree clubmoss
Wildlife (seen, heard, detected)
Pelicans along the Mississippi
from Great River Bluffs State Park

  • Blue Jay
  • Pelicans
  • Pileated woodpecker
  • Northern flicker
  • Black-capped chickadee
  • Cardinal
  • Winter ween
  • Yellow-rumped warbler
  • Palm warbler

What are YOU noticing on your hikes?

Two weeks of hikes:  Great River Bluffs State Park, Nodine MNSugar Creek Bluff, Ferryville WIVetsch Park, La Crescent MN; Goose Island Wigwam Slough, La Crosse, WI; Reno Quarry, Reno WI; Aldo Leopoldo Center and Ice Age Trail Baraboo segment, Baraboo, WI; BWCAW Topper Lake portage, Superior National Forest, MN; Wolf Point Lookout, Superior Hiking Trail, Castle Danger, MN; Temperance River Loop trail, Temperance River State Park, Tofte MN

Image - Lloyd Lorenz

The "I Spy on the Trails" column is a phenology (the study of seasonal changes in plants and animals) journal to chronicle year-round the weather, plant life and wildlife I observe while hiking. It is very useful in helping me compare observations from year-to-year. The column is published monthly from September through April and then twice-a-month from May through August when warm weather brings the natural world back to vibrant life.  

Images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters