Monday, November 6, 2023

Naturalist's Corner - Tons of Tundra Swans

Today we dig a little more deeply into the fall migration of tundra swans, a wonder along the Mississippi River!

Just as the trees have dropped their colorful autumn leaves and the dominant color in woods and fields are greys and browns, the tundra swan migration goes into high gear along the Mississippi River flyway near where we live in southeastern MN. Those brilliant white birds are like another party getting started!

This annual tundra swan fall migration hits our area just about the beginning of November and lasts until the end of the month. Shallow pools along the river sloughs are filled with their raucous calls. We see tens of thousands stopping on their migration routes. 

The most numerous species in North America, tundra swans (also called whistling swans) are slightly smaller than mute or trumpeter swans. They are white with a black bill which often has a spot of yellow on it near their eye.

Image courtesy of US Fish and Wildlife Service
They are dabblers - they upend themselves to eat their favored tubers - up to 6 lbs of "duck potatoes" a day.

I had always thought that the migrations from their summer nesting grounds to their winter grounds in the Chesapeake Bay area in the eastern United States and back again in spring were quick runs. I was surprised that studies tracking swans suggest that the swans spend over 4 month each year in their migration! 

The fall migration from the Arctic circle to Chesapeake Bay area is a journey of over 3000 miles. According to a study tracking a small sample of tundra swans written by Khristi A. Wilkins et al published in Wildfowl (2010) 60: 20–37, each of the 3 or 4 stops the swans make along the way lasts for 2-3 weeks as they rest and refuel before the next stop. The swans don't leave together and all at once, but rather there are staggered flights beginning from early September through early October. 

The green line shows the tundra swan migration path on the map

The swans can often stay in the Upper Mississippi river for a few weeks at a time before heading, in their final lap, to their Chesapeake Bay area wintering grounds. They take a sharp easternly turn and head directly there, with the final swans arriving from November through December. That's why habitats with a good food supply and vast areas where the migrating waterfowl can rest is so critical.

It speaks to the importance of all their resting stops. Healthy natural areas can support the migrations - especially in times of climate change. I will be watching in coming years to see what kind of impacts the warming temperatures might have on this important migration.

Meanwhile, now is the time to join the tundra swans' raucous migration party. The US Fish and Wildlife Service is sponsoring a number of staffed weekend viewings in the next few weeks to help you learn about and identify the swans and other waterfowl and birds migrating through.  Read on:

Swan Migration at Brownsville Overlook    

Saturdays/Sundays  Nov 11/12 and Nov 18/19   10am-2pm

Come enjoy the fall migration! As the seasons turn colder, thousands of swans, ducks and other water birds move through the refuge, finding a place to rest, relax and refuel before moving further south for the winter. A Refuge naturalist will be stationed at the Brownsville Overlook to help visitors identify birds and share information about the refuge and migration. Please note that naturalists’ shifts may be cancelled or end early without warning in inclement or extremely cold weather. The Brownsville Overlook is located about three miles south of Brownsville, Minnesota along Minnesota Highway 26. A portable restroom will be available on-site. We recommend wearing lots of warm layers!  Though peak migration is difficult to predict, the best time to see the tundra swan migration is usually the second or third week in November. The swans will typically stay until the water freezes over – if temperatures stay below freezing at night, the peak of migration will be earlier in November. Warmer weather extends their stay. Recent sightings and estimates of bird numbers are posted weekly on the refuge website.  For more information, please call the La Crosse District Visitor Center at 608-779-2399 (Tues-Fri 9am-3pm) 

The Friends of the Upper Mississippi will join the refuge on Saturday Nov 11 for Waterfowl Observation Day: Come join the Friends of the Upper Mississippi (FUM), Friends of the Refuge –Mississippi River Pools 7 & 8 (FOR78) and the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge to celebrate the fall migration! Spotting scopes and bird identification guides will be available for visitors to enjoy. Refuge staff, and members of FUM and FOR78 will assist with bird ID and related questions. Please dress for chilly weather! Light refreshments will be available while supplies last, during this event only. All donations for refreshments will benefit FUM. Members of FUM and FOR78 will have wildlife-themed items available for purchase. The Brownsville Overlook is one of the best places along the river to view hundreds of tundra swans, ducks, pelicans and bald eagles. The overlook is located about three miles south of Brownsville, MN along MN Highway 26.

You can read more about the tundra swans spring migration and habits in this recent post by Charlotte Lukes.

A huge thank you to Katie Julian of the US Fish and Wildlife Service who shared the research that helped me write this post!



Wednesday, November 1, 2023

Let's Get Hiking - and Learning! November 2023

Now THAT'S geology!
Image -  Marge-Loch-Wouters
November is a great hiking month - and great for learning too! With leaves off the trees, you often get a chance to view hidden rocks and geological formations that can escape our view during the lush foliage months.  Check out some of the opportunities available this month to hike, learn and swap.

Tundra Swan Field Trip  Saturday November 4     1-3pm  

Whitewater (MN) State Park. Each November, thousands of migrating tundra swans stop at the Upper Mississippi National Wildlife and Fish Refuge on their way to Chesapeake Bay. Join a naturalist caravan through the Whitewater Wildlife Management Area to Weaver Bottoms on the Mississippi River to observe tundra swans. Binoculars, spotting scopes and handouts will be available. Bring your own transportation. Meet at the Visitor Center. Sponsor: Whitewater State Park 

Swan Migration at Brownsville Overlook    Saturday/Sunday November 4 and 5    10am-2pm

Come enjoy the fall migration! As the seasons turn colder, thousands of swans, ducks and other water birds move through the refuge, finding a place to rest, relax and refuel before moving further south for the winter. A Refuge naturalist will be stationed at the Brownsville Overlook to help visitors identify birds and share information about the refuge and migration. Please note that naturalists’ shifts may be cancelled or end early without warning in inclement or extremely cold weather. The Brownsville Overlook is located about three miles south of Brownsville, Minnesota along Minnesota Highway 26. A portable restroom will be available on-site. We recommend wearing lots of warm layers!  Though peak migration is difficult to predict, the best time to see the tundra swan migration is usually the second or third week in November. The swans will typically stay until the water freezes over – if temperatures stay below freezing at night, the peak of migration will be earlier in November. Warmer weather extends their stay. Recent sightings and estimates of bird numbers are posted weekly on the refuge website.  For more information, please call the La Crosse District Visitor Center at 608-779-2399 (Tues-Fri 9am-3pm)  Sponsor: Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge 


Winter Gear Swap        Sunday November 5           10am-3pm

The Winona Outdoor Cooperative. Is your puffy losing insulation, or have you found an extra hole or two in your favorite pair of mittens? Now’s the time to gear up before snow begins to blanket the bluffs! Join the Winona Outdoor Collaborative, in partnership with Curiosi-Tea House, at our second annual Gear Swap this November. This season’s gear swap will focus on winter clothing and gear to help fuel you for your cold-season adventures. We will also have some out-of-season items available for sale. Don’t forget to check out our dollar bins where you can find outdoor clothing at affordable prices ($2 - $5), and swing by our gear table to find some great deals on thrifted outdoor equipment waiting for it’s second chance at life. Visit our website to learn more about how to sell your gear at our swap! 

Sponsor: Winona Outdoor Collaborative and Curiosi-Tea


Hiking the Driftless Area Presentation   Wednesday, November 8      10 am - noon

Whitewater (MN) State Park. I'll be presenting at the H.O.P. into the Park (Healthy Older People) series this month!  Discover well-known as well as more obscure trails that can be found in our nearby state parks, communities and rural areas. From bluffs to prairies, from wetlands to river's edge, from paved and flat to wild, rocky and steep, there's a trail perfect for everyone to hike in our area of MN and nearby in WI. We'll take a look at hikes perfect for retirees; families; active bluff and goat prairie climber/hikers; people recovering from illness and injury and more. And we'll touch on the wonders of hiking year-round. Sponsor: Friends of Whitewater State Park


Swan Migration at Brownsville Overlook    Saturday/Sunday November 11/12   10am-2pm

Come enjoy the fall migration! As the seasons turn colder, thousands of swans, ducks and other water birds move through the refuge, finding a place to rest, relax and refuel before moving further south for the winter. A Refuge naturalist will be stationed at the Brownsville Overlook to help visitors identify birds and share information about the refuge and migration. Please note that naturalists’ shifts may be cancelled or end early without warning in inclement or extremely cold weather. The Brownsville Overlook is located about three miles south of Brownsville, Minnesota along Minnesota Highway 26. A portable restroom will be available on-site. We recommend wearing lots of warm layers!  Though peak migration is difficult to predict, the best time to see the tundra swan migration is usually the second or third week in November. The swans will typically stay until the water freezes over – if temperatures stay below freezing at night, the peak of migration will be earlier in November. Warmer weather extends their stay. Recent sightings and estimates of bird numbers are posted weekly on the refuge website.  For more information, please call the La Crosse District Visitor Center at 608-779-2399 (Tues-Fri 9am-3pm)  Sponsor: Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge 


Fossil Field Trip  - Saturday, November 11      10am - noon

Whitewater (MN) State Park.

During this program we will go and look for ancient sea life that lived in the area hundreds of millions of years ago. We'll start with a brief introduction at the visitor center, then drive out of the park 9 miles to hunt for fossils. Bring your own transportation. [Marge note: you almost ALWAYS find a fossil at this very productive limestone site. Dress warmly - it can be cold if the wind is whipping!] Sponsor: Whitewater (MN) State Park


Waterfowl Observation Day Saturday, November 11 10am -2pm
Come join the Friends of the Upper Mississippi (FUM), Friends of the Refuge –Mississippi River Pools 7 & 8 (FOR78) and the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge to celebrate the fall migration! Spotting scopes and bird identification guides will be available for visitors to enjoy. Refuge staff, and members of FUM and FOR78 will assist with bird ID and related questions. Please dress for chilly weather! Light refreshments will be available while supplies last, during this event only. All donations for refreshments will benefit FUM. Members of FUM and FOR78 will have wildlife-themed items available for purchase. The Brownsville Overlook is one of the best places along the river to view hundreds of tundra swans, ducks, pelicans and bald eagles. The overlook is located about three miles south of Brownsville, MN along MN Highway 26.


Swan Migration at Brownsville Overlook    Sunday November 12   10am-2pm

Come enjoy the fall migration! As the seasons turn colder, thousands of swans, ducks and other water birds move through the refuge, finding a place to rest, relax and refuel before moving further south for the winter. A Refuge naturalist will be stationed at the Brownsville Overlook to help visitors identify birds and share information about the refuge and migration. Please note that naturalists’ shifts may be cancelled or end early without warning in inclement or extremely cold weather. The Brownsville Overlook is located about three miles south of Brownsville, Minnesota along Minnesota Highway 26. A portable restroom will be available on-site. We recommend wearing lots of warm layers!  Though peak migration is difficult to predict, the best time to see the tundra swan migration is usually the second or third week in November. The swans will typically stay until the water freezes over – if temperatures stay below freezing at night, the peak of migration will be earlier in November. Warmer weather extends their stay. Recent sightings and estimates of bird numbers are posted weekly on the refuge website.  For more information, please call the La Crosse District Visitor Center at 608-779-2399 (Tues-Fri 9am-3pm)  Sponsor: Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge 


Swan Migration at Brownsville Overlook    Saturday/Sunday November 18/19   10am-2pm

Come enjoy the fall migration! As the seasons turn colder, thousands of swans, ducks and other water birds move through the refuge, finding a place to rest, relax and refuel before moving further south for the winter. A Refuge naturalist will be stationed at the Brownsville Overlook to help visitors identify birds and share information about the refuge and migration. Please note that naturalists’ shifts may be cancelled or end early without warning in inclement or extremely cold weather. The Brownsville Overlook is located about three miles south of Brownsville, Minnesota along Minnesota Highway 26. A portable restroom will be available on-site. We recommend wearing lots of warm layers!  Though peak migration is difficult to predict, the best time to see the tundra swan migration is usually the second or third week in November. The swans will typically stay until the water freezes over – if temperatures stay below freezing at night, the peak of migration will be earlier in November. Warmer weather extends their stay. Recent sightings and estimates of bird numbers are posted weekly on the refuge website.  For more information, please call the La Crosse District Visitor Center at 608-779-2399 (Tues-Fri 9am-3pm)  Sponsor: Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge 


Guided Forest Bathing Gratitude Walk        Friday, November 24   10am - noon

Whitewater (MN) State Park. Finding appreciation for the little, everyday things that provide joy is an important practice for wellbeing. Join park naturalist and certified Nature & Forest Therapy Guide, Sara Holger, for a forest bathing walk centered around gratitude. To sign up, email sara.holger@state.mn.us or call 507-312-2301. Sponsor: Whitewater (MN) State Park


Be sure to check often with local hiking groups, universities, naturalist-interest groups, nature conservancies, nature centers and their Friends groups, state parks, US Fish and Wildlife centers and others in your area to see what is on offer to help you understand the natural world around you better.


Monday, October 30, 2023

Driftless Hiking Info Program Coming Up!

Wildcat Mountain (WI) State Park
Image - Lloyd Lorenz
On Wednesday, Nov 8 from 10am-noon at Whitewater State Park, I will be presenting a free program on hiking trails in the Driftless area hosted by the Friends of Whitewater State Park's H.O.P. (Healthy Older People) series. I hope you can come! No registration is needed.

The Driftless area and Driftless-adjacent areas are full of unique and diverse hiking trails and hiking experiences. 

So what's on tap at the program?

Discover well-known as well as more obscure trails that can be found in our nearby state parks, communities and rural areas. From bluffs to prairies, from wetlands to river's edge, from paved and flat to wild, rocky and steep, there's a trail perfect for everyone to hike in our area of MN and nearby in WI. 

We'll take a look at hikes perfect for retirees; families; active bluff and goat prairie climber/hikers; people recovering from illness and injury and more. And we'll touch on the wonders of hiking year-round.

I'll be sharing information about the proposed Minnesota Driftless Hiking Trail, a backpacking trail project that hopes to connect from the Whitewater area all the way to the Mississippi River. And finally, you'll get a tour of my hiking blog and how best to access the info that matches your needs as you make your hiking plans.

I hope you can join me to share your favorite hikes and discoveries you've made in the Driftless too. You're bound to leave with a "hope-to-hike" list with hikes perfect for your needs and situation! And have fun learning about things that will shock, delight and get you back into nature with renewed enthusiasm.

Something spooky on
Lost Creek Trail, Chatfield
Image - Kris Lawson




Standing atop the "spinal column" rocks
at Reno Quarry, Brownsville MN
Image - Lloyd Lorenz

Sunday, October 29, 2023

I Spy on the Trails - Oct 15 - 31, 2023



Temperatures for these two weeks started in the balmy mid-50s and headed into the 60s for a day or two. We have had some foggy starts to the days which makes blufftop hiking particularly notable not for the obscured views but for the lovely rolling fog coiling and roiling below the high bluffs. 

This last weekend finally brought the frost I’ve been expecting (plus some snowflakes) for the past few weeks and daytime temps in the 40s. Still, I can't help but feel we are in for another record warm month in October.

The autumn colors were on full display in our neck of the woods. One of the most stunning drives to see them is along the MN bluffs as you drive Hwy 61 between La  Crescent and Winona. The leaves have progressed from stunning bright blazing colors two weeks ago to the more muted golds, browns and russets of the last leaves this week. Wind and rain tell me even these leaves won’t last much longer.

I wasn’t alone in hitting the trails often during the past two weeks to enjoy the light filtering through the golden leaves. While most undergrowth has died back, the fungi and ferns are having a glorious time. It has made the past two weeks of hikes a marvelous experience. 

Wildflowers/Plants

  • Yellow coneflower
    Crowded parchment mushroom

  • Yarrow
  • New England aster
  • Hairy aster
  • Calico aster
  • Wild blue aster
  • Smooth blue aster 
  • Aromatic aster
  • Brown-eyed Susan 
  • Zigzag goldenrod
  • Spinulose woodfern
  • Lady fern
  • Maidenhair fern
  • Interrupted fern
  • Evening primrose
  • Goldenrod
  • Fly agaric mushroom
  • Resinous polypore 
  • Puffballs
  • Hairy curtain fungus
  • Crowded parchment fungus
  • Agueweed, species of dwarf gentian
  • American bladder nut
  • Sharp-lobed hepatica

Wildlife (seen/hear/detected)
Wooly caterpillar in a bootprint

  • Wooly caterpillar
  • Pileated woodpecker
  • Black-capped chickadee
  • Red-wing blackbird
  • European starling
  • Robin
  • Nuthatch
  • Bluebird


What are YOU noticing on your hikes?

Two weeks of hikes:  Great River Bluffs State Park, Nodine MN; Mathy Quarry Rim Trail, La Crosse WI; Coulee Experimental Forest, La Crosse County, WI; Riverside Park-Myrick Park Marsh Trail, La Crosse WI; Wagon Wheel Trail, La Crescent, MN; Reno Quarry, Brownsville MN; Appleblossom Overlook Park, Winona County MN; Lost Creek Trail, Chatfield MN

Image - Kris Lawson

The "I Spy on the Trails" column is a phenology (the study of seasonal changes in plants and animals) journal to chronicle year-round the weather, plant life and wildlife I observe while hiking. It is very useful in helping me compare observations from year-to-year. The column is published monthly from September through April and then twice-a-month from May through August when warm weather brings the natural world back to vibrant life.  

All images, unless noted, Marge Loch-Wouters


Friday, October 27, 2023

Coulee Experimental State Forest (WI) Hike - Russlan Coulee Trailhead

At the trailhead expansive views of the forest
The Coulee Experimental State Forest is tucked away in the rolling hills near Bangor WI. According to the WI DNR's website, "this 3,000 acre forest is used for long-term forest watershed research studies to develop land management practices. Coulee accurately describes the area, as the forest has many deep gulches and ravines."

The forest features a number of trails that primarily follow old roads around the huge property. One road trailhead, the Russlan Coulee Road, actually was used to drive between Barre Mills and Bangor. As such it features old bridges and culverts - and a trailhead at each end of the forest where people drove between the two communities! 

Old roads create wide trails
perfect for hiking/skiing
These extensive roads create wide, easily walked - and for skiers in winter - easily skiied (groomed for both classic and skate ski) trails. These ski trails and hikes are primarily at the top of the bluff.  During warmer months, the trails are often mowed. We noticed on our most recent hike that one road had been upgraded and newly graveled. 

We chose a through-hike route rather than and out and back loop for this particular hike. We left one vehicle on the westside Russlan Coulee lower trailhead. Then we dropped off the other car at the Cty Rd II trailhead (opposite Antony Rd) at the top of the bluff and hit the trail.

Peak colors!

You can follow the gravel road on the hike or zig left into the woods on an old dirt road following the North Loop trail. It winds through a beautiful hardwood forest as well as pines. The trail rolls up and down as you wind along. After about a mile and a half, you emerge into an intersection of trails - one can take you down the other side of the bluff to the east Russlan Coulee trailhead near Bangor; one can take you further along the North Loop to additional trail spurs; one can take you down to the west Russlan Coulee trailhead.

We followed the rim for a bit of exploring before turning back and heading down the steep trail back to the weat Russlan Coulee trailhead. If we had done just a straight through-hike, I would guesstimate we would have had about a 2-2.5 mile hike. Ferns and fungi were out in profusion and we hit peak color so the hike was particularly beautiful on this sunny day.

THE HIKE

Great for listening for/spotting birds, prolific plant life (oh, those ferns) and a bumper crop of fungi, you can choose your own adventure on these trails during warmer months. While we did a 3.6 mile through-hike with some exploring added in, you can add or subtract miles depending on your choices. State-provided trail maps are somewhat confusing - not all trailheads are listed on each different map they provide online. An app like AllTrails can help. This forest has hunting so wearing bright colors during small game hunting seasons is highly recommended. I would not recommend this hike during gun deer season.

Location - La Crosse County WI

I can't say it better than the WI DNR page. Just a heads-up. There is currently (10/27/23) road construction on Hwy 162 of I-90 so the western entrance way is your best bet until that clears up.


Images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters

Looking for more area hikes? Please stop by the web version of the blog and under the "Labels" tab on the right hand side of the blog, click on "find-a-hike". There are over 75 hike descriptions and lists of hikes to try!

Tuesday, October 24, 2023

Hiking Groups - Try Them, You'll Like Them!

One of the pleasures I’ve found in hiking in the Driftless is discovering the MANY groups that exist around the area that coordinate or sponsor hikes. 

Driftless Drifters Hiking club pals on 
 Mathy Quarry's Snakeroot Trail
Image - Marge Loch-Wouters
While I have always done a lot of hiking, it was mostly with family and a few close friends. My first weekly group experience was with our local Driftless Drifters back at it’s beginning in 2021. Sponsored by the La Crescent-Hokah Community Ed Department, the group opened my eyes to the many trails that I had never tried locally. 

Each hike was not only a discovery of new trails but a feast of information shared by the hikers themselves. Flower and plant identification, bird calls noted and birds named and spotted, insects noted, fungi found and identified. That sharing enriched the trail for me and piqued my curiosity. It's a big reason why I went ahead and became certified as a MN Master Naturalist. I wanted to know even more.

Winona's TakeAHike club and the Driftless Drifter's
Amblers meet for a joint hike at
Great River Bluff State Park
Image - Greg Watson
I joined other groups like the Driftless area's Blufflands Hiking group and Jabberwalkers. I also began meeting people in other groups like the La Crosse-based Trek-N-Treaters and Winona-based TakeAHike group. I have hiked with some of those groups and discovered even more trails to try and friends to meet. Becoming active in conservation clubs like the Sierra Club or Friends of a local nature center, state park or outdoor area also means you will find like-minded trail hounds. Women Who Hike - MN chapter has also been a rich well of hiking adventures and hiking meet-up possibilities. 

Plus meeting so many other people with a shared love of nature, the outdoors, phenological curiosity, adventure and challenge is great fun. Those friendships on the trail developed, for me, into a great network of hiking friends who are up for hikes any time of the week and year - not just during weekly hikes. I hike a couple of times a week with friends I've met from the groups I've participated in.

On the Levis Mound trail with the 
Blufflands Hiking group
Image - Steve Dawson

If you are looking to spark up your hiking and find new people to share the trails with I highly  recommend checking into what is happening in your community. Or starting your own group of nature lovers on the trail! 

Hiking friends from the Trek-N-Treaters hiking club
in La Crosse County's Coulee Experimental Forest
Image - Marge Loch-Wouters

The world outside is waiting for you - and so are your new friends!


Friday, October 20, 2023

Hiking the Drifted - North Shore/BWCAW

Over the past four weeks, I twice found myself up on Minnesota's North Shore for hiking and paddling adventures lasting a week each. I always enjoy hiking areas with different geological characteristics. And much like hiking in the southwestern US, the North Shore has a ton of great geology and challenging hikes thanks to glaciers and the pyrotechnics of the land's formation.

The first week was primarily a paddling vacation with my canoeing buddies into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) out of Ely, MN. I was testing out my shoulder after a year-long rehab to see if 6 hour paddles and portaging our Wenonah canoe were still in my toolbox. Mission accomplished - they are. 

Can still portage and paddle!

The second week, my honey and I headquartered near Grand Marais for hikes and leaf-peeping in the Superior National Forest along the Gunflint Trail, in the Sawtooth Mountains and along Hwy 61.

I had plenty of great hiking adventures throughout those two weeks. These trails feature sharp, steep inclines and winding, twisting and often-tree-root-ridden trails. The evidence of the imperviousness of Canadian Shield rock screams at you as you tackle these trails. Finding "easy" or flat trails is a completely different venture than in the Driftless area. I find this hiking good for the soul and soles.

My hikes included:

Eighteen Lake

Eighteen Lake,
Superior National Forest, Tofte District

Located near Isabella, MN off Hwy 1

This 2.9 mile hikes closely follows the shore of a small lake located in the Superior National Forest. Wetlands, hardwood forests, pines, small creeks and a few steep climbs to outlooks are all rolled up in this hike. The trail is clear although a bit overgrown in low-lying areas. The two or three steep climbs are primarily in the section to the right of the small (4 sites) rustic campground. The views are so worth it! I would rate this as moderate due to overgrowth on many parts of the trail and extremely steep hills to the outlook.

Dry Lake Trail
Dry Lake Trail,  Superior National Forest, Kawishiwi District

Located near Ely MN off Hwy 116

This is a loop trail but we decided to do an out-and-back after talking to hikers who said the northwest section of the loop was very difficult due to so many large rocks and exposed roots. We hiked 2.5 miles from the Basswood Lake trailhead and back. The trail is rolling and twisty with a number of outlooks along the way that give dramatic views of Basswood Lake. There is a small waterfall that was very dry this time of year but it was definitely a fun if challenging hike with elevation gains of 275 feet. I would rate this as moderate.


View from Wolf Rock
Wolf Rock, Superior Hiking Trail, Castle Danger to Gooseberry Segment

Located near Castle Danger, on Hwy 106, off Hwy 61

While this trail segment of the SHT heads approximately 9 miles to Gooseberry Falls, we were most interested in the very first half-mile section that leads to Wolf Rock. For a quick but steep hike, the reward is expansive views of Superior National Forest, Crow Creek Valley, Lake Superior and the Sawtooth Mountains. Not bad for a mile out-and-back!  Like almost all SHT segments, the trail up and down is seriously serious - but once up on the ridge the hike is easy - and those views!

My new fascination -
rockcap ferns at Topper Lake portage
Topper Lake Portage, BWCAW, Superior National Forest, Gunflint District

Off the Gunflint Trail, Forest Rd 317 (Mayhew Lk Rd)

A small sweet trail (especially sweet without a canoe to portage!) through wetlands and mixed forest features a huge boulder strewn area with ferns, lichen and moss growing everywhere. Less than a mile but a great stretch when driving up the trail to the Chik-Wauk Museum at the end or the Trail Center restaurant in the middle of the Gunflint Trail for the best malts and shakes around.



Divide Lake

Divide Lake Trail
, Superior National Forest, Tofte District

Near Isabella MN, off 600 Rd.

Tucked deeply into the forest, this beautiful canoe lake straddles the Laurentian Divide. On one side of the Divide, the waters drain to Lake Superior; on the other, the waters drain to Hudson Bay (Divide Lake's waters drain to Superior). This 2.7 mile hike was probably the flattest of all these hikes. It meandered around the larger lake on the east side of the road. The trailhead is at the 3-site rustic campground. There are a number of benches along the trail that winds gently up and down through hardwood and pine forests. There is a backpack site to peek at on a spur off the trail. 


Temperance River Loop
Image - Lloyd Lorenz

Temperance River Loop
, Temperance State Park

Near Silver Bay on Hwy 61

A popular hike is best done on a cool early morning with rain threatening. It guarantees few to no people on the whole trail! This 2.5 mile hike starts dramatically following the falls and gorges of the Temperance River as you climb and clamber up rocks and rock stairs to a multitude of stone-fenced lookouts along the first 1/4 mile of the trail. The Gitchi-Gami bike path crosses the trail at the bridge. From there you continue to ascend as the river slows. Continuing on this 2.7 mile loop, you once more climb steeply to another set of falls (more difficult to see) before turning and heading through gorgeous hardwood forest to rejoin the gorge trail for the final quarter mile back to the trailhead. The iconic stone fences and amazing views and the seldom-hiked back part of the loop keeps this hike as one our favorite of the massively used state park trails on the North Shore.

All images, unless noted - Marge Loch-Wouters